If you’re looking for a verdict on the English vs American Lab debate, I’ll tell you right now: American Labradors are the clear winner. They’ve got good looks, athleticism, and hunting drive in spades. But that matchup is like pitting a dressage pony against a cowboy’s quarter horse: It doesn’t make a whole lot of sense because they have two very different jobs.

A more apt comparison is between British and American Labs. Because we Americans are notoriously bad at geography, we often use “English” and “British” interchangeably. When it comes to working retrievers, this matters because English Labs are not the same thing as British Labs. English Labs are the stocky, blocky, square-headed Labs that look more suited for napping than fetching. They are traditionally show dogs, or conformation dogs, from England.

British Labs, or field Labs, are bred for hunting and field trial work, and they look an awful lot like healthy American Labs: athletic, lean, and lively. “British” simply means these Labs have bloodlines originating in the British Isles, which includes England, yes, but also Ireland, Scotland, and Wales. (My own British Lab happens to be Irish.) Still, there are plenty of differences to note between British and English vs American Labs. Here’s a rundown.

The English Lab vs American Breed Standard

The American Kennel Club recognizes a single breed of Labrador retriever. In other words, English, British, and American Labs aren’t distinguished by any major genetic differences—they’re all just Labrador retrievers. That’s why the AKC’s and the UK Kennel Club’s descriptions of what an ideal Lab looks and behaves like have far more similarities than differences. For example, Labs from both America and England should have friendly eyes expressing “intelligence and good temper” and a tail that “may be carried gaily but should not curve over [the] back.”

While physical differences can and do exist between American and British retrievers (more on this in a minute), size is usually the only reliable indicator of heritage, says Dave Bavero, owner of Waterstone Labradors in Boerne, Texas. British Labs tend to be smaller than American Labs.

Instead of major genetic differences, behavior and training preferences have shaped Labs so they reflect, somewhat comically, the stereotypes of their owners. American Labradors are vocal, enthusiastic, high-strung. English and British Labs are reserved, quieter, polite.

Physical Characteristics of Labs

Because the following characteristics are generally but not always true, a dog might be larger or smaller than the measurements associated with their bloodlines. Or they may have a mix of traits, like a blocky head and curving tail. When it comes to the English vs American Lab, overall size and personality is often a better indicator of breeding.

One note: The classic “otter tail” that is desirable in all Labs refers not to the length or curvature of a Lab’s tail, but to its rounded shape padded out with thick, dense hair. (If you’ve ever grabbed your Lab’s wagging tail to keep it from whacking you, you’ll understand.)

Energy Levels and Temperament

There’s a reason the Labrador retriever reigned supreme as America’s most popular dog breed for three decades. Labs are versatile dogs known for their energy, trainability, affection, and playfulness. They make great family dogs and dedicated, reliable working dogs. Both American and British Labs thrive with proper obedience training and regular exercise. Because they’re descendants of the extinct St. John’s water dog—a breed that helped fishermen in Newfoundland retrieve their catches—most Labs love water.

As with all dogs of a particular breed, individual Labs have individual personalities. Still, American Labs have a reputation for high energy. They are often vocal (known to bark and whine to express themselves) and can be rambunctious at home. The old saying that Lab puppies finally calm down when they turn three is especially apt when describing American Labs. This is because American Labs are a sporting breed, and breeders have historically prioritized high drive in their litters and continue to breed for those traits.

While the Brits also breed Labradors with retrieving drive in mind, they tend to prioritize calmness and quietness in their dogs. That’s why British Labs have a reputation as well-mannered house dogs.

“I have 15 dogs,” says Matty Lambden, a field trial judge and owner of Tamrose Labradors in central Ireland. “I could walk around me kennels and there won’t be one—not even one squeak. It’s a fault [in the UK]. If your dog whimpers in line, he’s gone. You drove three hours and the dog gives a bit of a cry, he’s out the door and you’re knocked out of the competition. So that’s why we don’t proceed with that [trait] or breed off those dogs. You’re better off putting all [your efforts] into a dog that you know is going to be quiet.”

Trainability of the English Lab vs American

While both American and British Labs are highly trainable and eager to please, the general rule is that American Labs are more resilient to pressure. Pressure refers to physical corrections, ranging from the tug of a leash to e-collar stimulation and force fetching. The reason pressure matters is that a training misstep with a softer dog is likely to have outsize consequences.

“Get a dog that has enough talent that they’re going to make up for your mistakes,” retriever trainer Tom Dokken advises owners interested in training their own Lab. “Because if you get a dog that’s super soft and you’re making mistakes at the wrong time, you might just shut that dog totally down. Whereas a professional trainer, if he has enough experience, he’s evaluating that dog early on to know where that dog’s limits are and where the correction levels are in order to keep it working.”

British Labs are known for their soft temperament and can shut down under too much pressure. It’s not an insult to tell a Brit their dog is soft. On the contrary, it’s a desirable trait and one of the reasons force fetching and e-collar training is almost nonexistent in the UK and among devotees of British-style dog trainers. In fact, British handlers often don’t put any collar on their dog at all. When I asked one British trainer why he didn’t keep collars on his dogs, he shrugged and said he thought they looked better without it (he wasn’t wrong). It’s also something of an obedience humble brag. My dog, he seemed to be saying, doesn’t need a collar.

Which Lab Is a Better Hunting Dog?

You could start bar fights over which breeds and even bloodlines make the best hunting dog breeds. If you ask American Lab handlers which Lab is the better hunting dog, they’ll assure you it’s an American. Brits will tell you just the opposite. (Few people will try to convince you English Labs make good hunting dogs.) In reality, the best Lab for you depends on the kind of hunting you’re planning to do, and what you prioritize in a dog.

“I always tell people to get the best bloodlines you can buy,” says Dokken, the legend behind Dokken’s Oak Ridge Kennels and the inventor of the Dead Fowl Trainer. . “I don’t care if it’s British, American, whatever it is. You can have dogs—again, whether it’s British or American—that have some talent. And then you can have dogs that have a lot of talent.”

Dokken has worked with thousands of dogs over his four-decade career and trained both American and British Labs. He doesn’t play favorites and if you ask him which he prefers, his answer is always the same: “One that wants to work.”

Still, in his decades of hunting and training, Dokken has personally owned five Labs; all five have been American. My British Lab and I trained at Dokken’s farm in South Dakota, a wind-swept prairie with big water and thick cover. It’s a fair microcosm of American bird hunting. Retrievers in the U.S. are often asked to navigate ocean surf for sea ducks, swift rivers for mallards, and half-frozen potholes for pintails. Our hunters work dogs in prickly desert, steep mountains, and dense woods for quail, chukar, and grouse. Hunting here is more dangerous than in tidy British farm ponds and neat hedgerows. 

For that reason, it’s smart to get a high-intensity dog whose drive overwhelms the potential for discomfort or disinterest when the hunting gets tough or slow. On average, that’s probably going to be a Lab with American bloodlines.

If quiet mornings and perfect blind manners are important to you, consider a British Lab. Duck hunting in particular includes lots of slow mornings, and a trained British dog will usually be able to wait out the doldrums silently and without fidgeting. (The same is true of an English Lab vs American if you’re determined to hunt with one.)

Here’s an example: One of the best duck dogs I’ve ever hunted over was an American Lab. That dog was steady, obedient, and had drive oozing out his ears. In the blind, he whined like a spoiled kid doing chores on a Saturday. Ultimately my buddy would get annoyed with his dog and I’d get a headache. (Whining in dogs, Dokken says, is usually involuntary—they don’t know they’re doing it, so it’s often impossible to correct.) Meanwhile, my own pup began his duck hunting career with more uncertainty than a hard-charging American Lab, but he stays naturally quiet, stays put when I ask him to, and picks up ducks just fine.

Labrador Retrievers in Field Trials

British Labs have always made good hunting dogs, says Bavero, but they’ve historically been dismissed by American handlers for field trials and hunt tests. 

“The stigma has been that British Labs are not as competitive of dogs, but you’re starting to see more of them in trials,” says Bavero, who began importing Labs from Ireland with his business partner in 2018. “But a lot of that stigma has been how we [Americans] have been training them: If you want to run a hunt test, you have to put a lot of pressure on the dogs. … The American style has been kind of what we do with most things. Build them up and break them down.”

Bavero finds that U.S. competitions tend to emphasize blind retrieves and focus on a handler’s ability to direct their dog right to a bird rather than letting the dog hunt naturally. Dogs require exceptional drive to endure the tedium of advanced handling drills, so Americans breed for that energy.

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Meanwhile, Brits breed for what Bavero calls “natural game-​finding ability,” a trait that’s rewarded more in British hunt trials, where dogs are handled to an area, then encouraged to search for birds as they would while hunting. Handling is still required but it’s less technical. The cultural emphasis on honoring other dogs has also resulted in calm, steady lines.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

British and American Labs are more similar than they are different. If you’re determined to compare the two, British and English Labs are generally shorter, quieter, and calmer. American Labs are known for their athleticism, high drive, and enthusiasm. But instead of worrying about whether a British or English vs American Lab is “better,” pay attention to which dog is right for your needs and lifestyle. Do your homework and choose a responsible breeder. If you get a chance to see a breeder interact with his dogs and, better yet, meet the sire and dam of a litter you’re considering, do it. Once you’ve made your decision, you’ll fall in love with whichever Lab you take home—no matter what his pedigree says.

The post A Guide to the English Lab vs American Lab appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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There are plenty of reasons to learn to hunt. The most ancient and trendiest modern reason for hunting are actually the same: it’s a great way to secure lean, free-range meat for yourself and your family. Wild game meat reduces your reliance on the commercial food chain and helps you know exactly what you’re eating in our age of processed foods. Hunting is also a great way to learn more about the natural world, and to support wildlife habitat and conservation in the U.S. Best of all? Hunting is fun.

But getting started isn’t always easy. Hunting is a commitment that takes time, interest, specialized gear, and lots of leg work. But it’s worth it. That’s why we pulled together this step-by-step guide to help you navigate all the essential stages and skills of becoming a hunter, from signing up for a hunter safety course to cooking your hard-earned venison, and everything in between.

Let’s get started.

Navigating this Post

Because there’s a lot to hunting, there’s a lot to this article. Here’s a handy list to help you find the information you’re looking for more quickly. Read straight through, or click on a chapter to jump right to it.

1. Hunter Education
2. How to Find a Hunting Mentor
3. Navigating Hunting Laws and Seasons
4. Hunting Gear
5. Guns, Ammo, and Shooting Practice
6. Finding a Place to Hunt
7. Basic Tactics for any Hunt
8. Field-Dressing, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game

1. Hunter Education

By Natalie Krebs

Hunting is a highly regulated activity, which means you’ll need a license to hunt wild game like deer, turkeys, squirrels, and more. Before you can purchase a hunting license, however, you need to take and pass a hunter education course.

Do I really need hunter ed to buy a license?

Each state has different requirements for this: Some states only require hunter education if you were born after a certain date; others require all license buyers to hold a valid hunter education certificate. You can find your own state or province’s requirements here.

No matter your state’s requirements, it’s still a good idea to take the course. Hunter ed teaches safe firearm handling, ethical shot placement, your state’s regulations, and more. In-person courses also give you the opportunity to ask experienced hunters questions and get to know other new hunters.

Can I try hunting before I take hunter education?

You certainly can, though this is easier in some states than others. This also requires you to know someone who hunts and is willing to take you. The first way to do this is to purchase an apprentice hunting license, which allows you to legally hunt and harvest an animal under the supervision of a licensed adult hunter. Apprentice licenses are only available in certain states, but they’re a great way to gauge your interest in hunting.

The second option is just to tag along on a hunt with another licensed hunter. With a few exceptions for non-game species (like coyotes and hogs), you won’t be able to pull the trigger yourself. But you’ll learn a lot, and get a pretty good idea about how you like that particular style of hunting.

Where do I sign up for hunter education?

Go to hunter-ed.com and click on your state. Most states allow you to take an online course through this site, and will note any additional requirements like in-person tests or field days. If your state doesn’t participate in the online course, check out this map to go straight to your state’s hunter ed page.

How much does hunter education cost?

Hunter ed courses range from $0 to $30, depending on your state and whether you take the course online or in person (usually free). There’s a service fee for online courses, though some states require you to pay up only after you’ve passed the class.

Where is my hunter education certificate valid?

You can use it to buy a hunting license in all 50 states and many countries. This is another reason why it’s important to take hunter ed even if your state doesn’t require it: If you ever want to hunt in a different state, you’ll likely need a hunter ed number to buy a license.

How long is my hunter ed certificate good for?

Once you pass, you’re certified for life.

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Do I need a bowhunter education course?

Most states don’t require these, but offer them anyway. If you want to bowhunt (this includes a crossbow) in a state that does require a bowhunter education course, like Montana or New York, you’ll have to take one in addition to (not instead of) a general hunter ed course. You can find out if your state requires bowhunter ed here.

I passed my hunter ed course. Now what?

Congrats! You should have been issued a temporary or permanent hunter education card—go make several copies of this before you lose it, and file them in a safe place. It’s also a good idea to save your hunter ed number in your phone so you have it handy when you need to buy a hunting license. If you ever lose your card, you can print or request a replacement from your game agency, but it can sometimes be a hassle.

2. How to Find a Hunting Mentor

Hunter education classes are critical, but there’s no way around it: learning to hunt from one is like learning to drive by reading a driver’s ed manual. The only way to get good at either is to practice, and to do so with guidance. That’s where mentoring programs and other hunters come in.

Your Personal Hunting Mentor

If you already know someone who hunts, start there. This might be a friend, family member, coworker, or neighbor. Depending on your relationship with them, you might just be able to ask them to take you hunting sometime. If you don’t know them as well, ease into it. Ask them questions about what you need help with the most, like finding a good archery shop or buying the right hunting license.

Work your way up to asking them to join you for an in-person project. Maybe you need help picking out a deer rifle at Cabela’s, or navigating your first trip to the shooting range. Eventually you should know each other well enough that you can ask to tag along on a hunt. Better yet, your new mentor will hopefully invite you to join them.

Once you find someone who’s willing to help you, be sure to pull your own weight. Never forget that this hunter is doing you a favor, and that helping you learn to hunt cuts into their own schedule. Absolutely ask them for advice, tips, and to hunt with you, but take initiative, too. If they take you to the range once, go back on your own next time. If they recommend a public-land spot, go check it out. Don’t count on them to hold your hand for years to come, or to hunt with you every time you want to go.

Learn-to-Hunt Programs and Community Support

If the hunter you hoped would help seems non-committal, that’s okay too. There’s someone else out there who will be excited to help you, whether you know them yet or not.

This is where learn-to-hunt programs come in. These in-person workshops are usually organized either by your state game agency (like these, in Indiana) or a wildlife conservation organization, like the Quality Deer Management Association’s Field-to-Fork program. Search for programs by state or by the critter you’re interested in learning to hunt. Critter organizations include the National Wild Turkey Foundation, Pheasants Forever and Quail Forever, the Ruffed Grouse Society, and more. If you want to talk to a real person who can give you tailored advice, contact the R3 coordinator in your state. It’s their job to help you get started.

A lot of learn-to-hunt programs fill up fast, so if you’re having trouble getting into a class, don’t give up. Keep trying, and in the meantime, do your best to meet people in the hunting community. Go to a Ducks Unlimited banquet or a Backcountry Hunters and Anglers pint night. These are great ways to get to know sportsmen and women in your area, who can offer you the advice you’re looking for, and maybe even take you hunting.

Finally, if you’re having trouble finding classes or events to attend, consider finding a mentor with digital resources like Powderhook. And if all else fails, remember: There’s not much you can’t learn from YouTube. —N.K.

3. Navigating Your State’s Hunting Laws and Seasons

As you probably noticed in hunter education, there are lots of regulations that govern how, what, and when you can hunt. To make things even more complicated, there are two sets of guidelines for hunting: laws and ethics. It may, for example, be legal to hunt deer with a rifle that you haven’t practiced with. But that doesn’t mean you should. You owe it to the hunting community and to the animals you hunt to follow your state’s regulations, and to do so under fair-chase conditions. Game law violations have serious consequences, ranging from tickets to revoked hunting privileges or worse.

The best way to avoid getting into trouble is simply to learn and follow your state’s regulations.

Start with your state game agency’s website. That’s where you can find season dates, general hunting regulations, and species-specific rules. You can also purchase a hunting license there.

Season Dates

Every year, your state game agency releases the dates that determine when you can hunt a certain species. Squirrel seasons, for instance, are usually pretty simple, with dates that typically start in summer or early fall and run through late winter. Deer and other big game seasons are more complicated. As a general rule, these open in early fall and run through December or even later. Season dates are usually broken down by the method of take, such as bow season, rifle or shotgun season, and muzzleloader season, with some overlap. Rifle seasons are the most popular, and you’ll notice the most hunters in the woods then. Your season may be further broken down by the type of deer that’s legal at a certain time (e.g. antlered vs. antlerless). Season dates can also vary by county or, out West, by hunting unit.

Hunting isn’t just a fall pursuit. Rabbit and predator seasons run through late winter, spring snow goose season opens in February, spring turkey seasons run from March to May, many bear seasons open in May and June, and you can often hunt invasive species like feral hogs any time of year.

Hunting Regulations

There are general hunting rules that typically apply anywhere in the U.S. For instance, it’s almost always illegal to shoot an animal from a vehicle or while you’re standing on or beside a road. Other regulations depend on your state: In places like Oklahoma and Texas, it’s perfectly legal to pour a pile of corn onto the ground and hunt deer over it. Meanwhile, this practice (called baiting) is illegal in states like Indiana and New York.

To avoid running afoul of such varied regulations, learn your state’s general hunting regulations by reading the current year’s reg booklet, which you can find online or pick up in a sporting goods store. Know when you need to wear blaze orange, how to transport your firearm to the field, and other essential info.

Then study the animal-specific section. If you’re hunting squirrels, you should know how many squirrels you can kill in one day (your daily bag limit), which squirrels are legal (e.g. gray squirrels and fox squirrels) what kind of weapon and ammunition you can use, and your possession limit (i.e. how many squirrels you can store in your freezer before you have to stop hunting or start eating them).

Pay special attention to tagging and transportation requirements for big game like deer and elk. There are rules about when and how to tag an animal you’ve killed, and how to transport it. You’ll also likely need to report, or check in, your harvest within a certain time period. States like Missouri are strict, requiring hunters to check in deer by 10 p.m. on the day it was killed. Meanwhile, other states may never require you to report your deer at all.

Finally, be sure to pay attention to wanton waste laws. Taking home meat is one of the best parts of hunting, and leaving behind certain edible parts of the animal is actually illegal. You can choose to take or leave the more adventurous parts of a deer, like the heart, liver, and tongue. But you cannot leave, say, the front shoulder just because you packed out most of the meat, and you’re too tired for one last trip.

Buying a Hunting License

Once you’re familiar with the season you want to hunt, you’ll need to purchase a license. Again, you’ll buy this directly through your state game agency online, or you can purchase it in person at sporting shops or big box stores like Cabela’s and Walmart. If you buy a license online you can usually print it out, but some states don’t do this with all their licenses and will mail it instead. Translation: Don’t wait until the night before opening day to purchase a license.

There are two general types of licenses: over-the-counter tags (abbreviated OTC) or draw tags. Draws are more common in Western states, and where the demand to hunt an animal is higher than the resource can handle. To mitigate that pressure, state game agencies only issue a certain number of tags for that species each year. That means you often have to apply for that license, like bighorn sheep in Wyoming or elk in Kentucky. Happily, there’s always something to hunt with an over-the-counter tag, no matter what state you’re in.

It’s also important to know the difference between a hunting license and a tag, and any other privileges or stamps you must purchase to hunt a certain species. Many states require you to purchase a hunting license, which is usually good for small game, and then purchase additional tags for deer, turkeys, etc. If you want to hunt migratory birds like ducks and geese, you must purchase an annual duck stamp online or at your local post office. (You can read more about duck stamps, and why you need one, here.)

Finally, there’s a difference between resident and non-resident licenses. Resident tags are much more affordable than non-resident tags, so you get the most bang for your buck when you hunt in your home state. If you ever travel to another state to hunt, you’ll have to fork over extra cash for the non-resident tag. (Remember: The pricier tag is a lot easier to stomach than the penalties for falsely claiming residency.)

If you’re ever unsure what license or tags you need, call your state game agency and ask. They’ll be happy to answer your questions. —N.K.

4. Gear

While there’s plenty of shiny (and expensive) gear out there, you don’t need all that much to get started hunting. Different species may require specialized gear, but the basics for every hunt are pretty similar. If you don’t want to invest in a bunch of new clothing or gear right away, borrowing gear from a friend or buying used gear is a great option.

A Note on Camo

While you can usually identify a hunter by his or her camo, camouflage isn’t mandatory for hunting. If you look at old hunting photos, you’ll notice that hunters tended to wear wool coats, flannel shirts, and blue jeans. It’s only in the last 50 or so years that hunters really started relying heavily on camo. More important than any camo pattern is your ability to remain still and conceal your profile (more on that below). Ducks, turkeys, and predators are typically exceptions to this rule thanks to their sharp eyes, though you can certainly kill any of these species while wearing a pair of Carhartts.

Layers

Like most outdoor and athletic pursuits, layers are key and cotton is your enemy. The weather on a hunt can range from steamy 80-degree days during early bow seasons to the fridge temperatures of deep winter. Layers allow you to dress for the weather and the type of hunting you’re doing. If you’re going to be sitting in a deer blind most of fall, you’ll need more layers than if you’re chasing elk all over the mountains.

Base layers (long underwear and a long john top) are the best place to start. These should be synthetic or merino wool—wicking fabrics that keep you warm even if you get sweaty then start to cool down. Synthetic or wool socks are key, too. If you need mid-layers, opt for a sweatshirt, a fleece, a down vest—whatever fits under your outer layers and keeps you warm without adding too much bulk. You’ll likely want a camo jacket and camo pants, both dedicated outer layers. If you don’t have camo, wear natural, neutral colors like green, tan, brown, or gray.

Boots

A good pair of boots can make or break your hunt, so it’s wise to invest in a pair of these. Again, these don’t need to be camo, but many good hunting boots are available in camo patterns.

The type of boot you choose will depend on where you live and what you want to hunt, but it’s hard to go wrong with a durable mid-calf leather boot. Something similar to the classic, ever-popular Danner Pronghorn is a good place to start. Hiking boots can work well for early-season hunts across dry terrain. If you want to do a lot of backcountry hunting that requires packing heavy loads, you’ll want a sturdier boot built for that kind of weight. If you live in swampy country or you’re planning to turkey hunt (which often coincides with heavy spring rains), you’ll probably want a pair of knee-high rubber boots. Pay attention to whether your boots are waterproof, and what kind (if any) insulation they have.

Big Game Gear

If you’re going to be hunting deer from a treestand, invest in a safety harness. Think of it like a helmet for your bike: You probably won’t need it, but if and when you do, it could save your life. If you’re planning to hunt whitetails in the timber on public land, you’re also going to want a climbing stand. If you’d prefer to hunt on the ground, opt for a collapsible ground blind. Other important gear includes a pair of binoculars, a hunting pack, a bottle of wind indicator, and a haul line to raise and lower your bow or rifle if you’re hunting from a treestand.

Turkey Hunting

Camo is your friend when it comes to turkeys. You’ll want a face mask and thin camo gloves, and a box or friction call to get started. If you’re really intimidated by calling, try a push-button call. Many turkey hunters prefer to wear a vest with a built-in seat cushion, but a small camo hunting pack is fine if you don’t have one. You’ll also need decoys. If you only have the budget for one decoy, get a hen deke; if you can afford two, opt for a hen and a jake. A small pair of binoculars on a bino harness are handy, too.

Waterfowl Gear

This is one of the most gear-intensive types of hunting, which often requires lots of decoys and, frequently, a good duck dog. For new hunters, your best bet is to tag along with an experienced waterfowler, who can hopefully lend you a pair of waders (which aren’t cheap). If you’re field hunting, you can skip the waders and wear regular hunting boots or, better yet, a pair of knee-high rubber boots. You’ll also want to bring along ear plugs or electronic ear protection, especially if you’re hunting in a metal pit blind. Without them, fast shooting by multiple hunters can damage your hearing and give you a ringing headache in short order. Bring a camo hat to conceal your face from sharp-eyed ducks. If you already have a pump or semi-auto shotgun, bring it; if not, ask to borrow one.

Upland Gear

Camo isn’t important for hunting rabbits and upland birds like pheasants, quail and grouse. This style of hunting involves covering lots of ground and combing heavy brush to flush animals rather than hiding from them. Wear a pair of sturdy pants that can protect you from thorns and cacti. Don’t forget to layer, too. Even if it’s frigid out, you’ll warm up quickly. Good boots are critical on an upland hunt, and you typically want something lighter-weight without too much insulation. Hiking boots with good ankle support are a fine option if the terrain is dry or steep, but sloppy and snowy conditions call for a waterproof or warmer higher-profile hunting boot.

Women’s Gear

If you’re having a hard time finding hunting gear that fits you well, you’re not alone. Check out our women’s gear guides here and here for our favorite women’s hunting pants, boots, sports bras, and more.

Accessories

Don’t forget blaze orange (if required), a beanie or ball cap, gloves, and a camo face mask for bowhunting or turkey hunting (though you can use face paint if you prefer.) Remember to pack a hunting knife for any gutting or cleaning work (see the section on butchering, below, for more). —N.K.

5. Guns, Ammo, and Shooting Practice

By Alex Robinson

If you’re a recreational shooter who’s looking to get into hunting, this part will be pretty easy for you. Just make sure you’re getting plenty of practice, you choose quality hunting ammo, and you keep shots at game within a comfortable distance. But if you’re totally new to firearms, this can be one of the most intimidating aspects of getting in to hunting.

The first thing to know is that most folks in the firearm world are nice, friendly people who are usually more than willing to offer some help to a beginner. That’s even true if they may seem a little rough around the edges at first.

If you have a friend who is a hunter or shooter, ask them to introduce you to shooting with either an air rifle or rimfire rifle. The low recoil will allow you to practice good shooting form without taking a beating and potentially developing bad habits like flinching or jerking the trigger.

If you don’t know any shooters, find a nearby range that offers a course or class for beginners. Letting someone walk you through safe firearm handling and good shooting form will help you immensely. (Pro tip: Check your eye dominance before getting started.) You’ll get a little bit of this instruction in hunter’s education, but not nearly enough to make you a competent shooter in the field.

Your First Gun

Once you’ve got the basics down and have a little experience under your belt, it’s time to get a gun of your own. Choose a gun based on your hunting need and the regulations in your area. When you’re looking for a rifle or a shotgun, remember that you get what you pay for. If you’re looking for an affordable rifle or shotgun, you’ll be able to find a solid gun in the $500 range. Call a few gun shops and explain what you’re looking for. If they start trying to talk you into a gun that costs $1,000 or more, take your business somewhere else.

When you’re starting out, lighter calibers and smaller gauges are the way to go. Think .243 or 6.5 Creedmoor for rifles and 20 gauges for shotguns. Getting rocked by recoil on your first few trips to the range is going to slow your development as a shooter.

Once you’ve got a gun, there’s plenty to consider: safe storage, getting it sighted in, buying ammo, and cleaning it. Besides the safety aspect, your main job now is to practice with it and get comfortable handling it. This means spending as much range time as possible, which is good, because once you get comfortable, you’ll find that shooting is pretty damn fun. Just wear good hearing protection and eye protection, and follow all the range rules. And if you don’t know what the rules are or have questions about them, just ask!

Make sure your practice replicates what you’ll see in the field as closely as possible. When it comes to rifle shooting, that means practicing from field positions (after your rifle is zeroed, of course). If you’re trying to get into bird hunting, consider signing up for a sporting clays or skeet league, or even a wingshooting clinic. This will sharpen your skills and give you the chance to meet other shooters.

Just remember: The primary goals here are 1) to get comfortable with safely handling the gun you plan to hunt with and 2) to become competent with that firearm so you’re able to make a quick, clean kill in the field.

Making Shots on Game

Shooting a game animal is more challenging than shooting targets at the range. This is because you will be excited and there will be additional variables that affect the shot. This includes a moving animal, brush obscuring part of the critter, cold fingers, or wind swaying your treestand. Because of this, it’s extra important to only shoot at animals that are well inside of your comfortable range. For many first-time big game hunters, that means inside 200 yards with a rifle and well inside 100 yards for with a shotgun or muzzleloader.

Each hunter must decide his or her own ethical maximum range. But here’s a good rule of thumb to follow: you should be able to hit a target the size of the animal’s vitals 100 percent of the time. If you can’t, you need to move closer. Also, your maximum effective range may change depending on field conditions. Maybe you can’t get a steady rest, or the wind is ripping across the canyon. If you have any doubts, don’t take the shot and move closer, or wait and let the critter move closer to you.

6. How to Find a Place to Hunt

There are two versions of hunting ground—public and private. Many diehard hunters rely on a mix of private and public hunting land and there are pros and cons of each. But the goal when you’re starting out is to find land that is relatively easy for you to get to, has a good population of the game you’re targeting, and isn’t overloaded with other hunters.

Private Land

In an ideal scenario, you already have access to private land to hunt on. Maybe your family owns land or you’ve got friends who hunt and will give you access. This isn’t the case for many folks, but that doesn’t mean you’re out of luck on private ground. It’s definitely possible to get free access to private hunting land, but you’ll have to do some leg work. Identify nearby landowners (using a digital mapping app like HuntStand or onX Hunt) who have properties that look promising and simply go ask them for permission to hunt.

A couple important tips: It’s easier to get permission for small game or turkeys than it is for deer; get permission before the season starts; don’t stop by late at night or when the landowner might be eating dinner; cash crop famers are more likely to grant permission; be nice and courteous no matter how the landowner responds.

If asking permission on private ground seems too intimidating, you could also consider leasing land to hunt. There are plenty of websites that show which lands are available for leasing. Consider a small out-of-the way property and also splitting the lease with a hunting buddy.

Public Land

On the flip side, there’s public land. Most state wild game agency websites have maps that show designated public hunting lands. Some states, like Montana, have an incredible amount of public land that is open to hunting. Other states, like Illinois, have a minimal amount of public ground.

Once you get an idea of public land areas nearby, you’ll want to do some basic digital scouting. This means using a mapping app or Google Earth to check out satellite images of the property. Take note of access points, terrain features, and potential habitat. After identifying some likely areas, go check out the properties well before the season (see the “scouting” section below).

There are a couple important things to consider when looking for public-land hunting spots. First, any areas that are a short drive from large towns or cities will likely see a heavy amount of hunting pressure. You can have success on these areas, but the hunting is more challenging (because the critters are conditioned to avoid hunting pressure) and you need to be careful about bumping in to other hunters.

Read next: Newbie’s Guide to Hunting-Spot Etiquette

If you are in good physical condition and like to hike, use that to your advantage on public land. Most hunters set up relatively close to parking areas. The farther away you get from roads and other hunters, the more game you will find. Look for signs of other hunters out there. That means boot tracks, glow tacks, manmade trails, and stands or blinds. If you’re seeing a ton of hunter sign, you probably want to move on to a new spot. Also, use terrain obstacles like marshes or streams to your advantage. Most other hunters will not want to cross these obstacles, so throwing on a pair of waders and making the slog can often lead you to better hunting opportunities. —A.R.

7. Basic Tactics for Any Hunt

Every hunt for each different species calls for different tactics. Your hunting strategy can even change based on location, or weather, or season. But there are some very basic tactics that all hunts require no matter what the game or location. Understanding these basics will help you grow into a better, more effective hunter.

Scout More Than You Hunt

The most successful hunters spend more time scouting than hunting. Learn to love scouting—exploring new areas, learning about the species you’re hunting, and spending lots and lots of time outside. The goal here is to find areas that game animals hang out in before you actually start hunting. You can do this by spotting the animals, or by reading sign they’ve left in the area. Before the season starts, it’s a good idea to get out and walk the areas you plan to hunt. This will help you determine if there are critters around, but it will also help you get more familiar with the terrain. As you walk a new property, imagine that you’re a critter trying to travel through an area without getting spotted. Pay attention to the trails you take. Often times they will lead to natural terrain funnels (like a strip of dry ground between two ponds). These are good places to target and if you walk trails back from these funnels, they’ll often lead you to bedding areas or feeding areas. If it’s legal where you are hunting, setting trail cameras is an invaluable scouting strategy.

Once the season begins, keep scouting! Now you must try to find areas to hunt without spooking game. If you’re after deer or turkeys, that usually means exploring new areas midday, when the animals aren’t moving as much (you don’t want to scare them out of the area). You can also scout from your vehicle with binoculars. In more open country, just driving roads in the mornings or evenings can give you an idea of the areas animals are using. For example, if you’re after waterfowl, driving around and watching where ducks and geese are flying and feeding is key.

Get Sneaky

Animals know when they are being hunted. You’ve probably seen deer in a park or maybe even in your backyard. Those deer might have mostly ignored you, maybe they let you get close to snap a photo with your phone. But deer on public hunting ground (or private ground) won’t let you do this during hunting season. All wild animals have incredible senses and survival instincts. To get close to wild game on their turf, you’ve got to be stealthy enough to slide in under those senses, undetected.

It starts with being quiet. When you are in your hunting area, walk softly and slowly. This helps you avoid that loud crunching march of a hunter tromping though the woods, which wild game recognizes instantly. But it also gets you in the right mind set. It forces you to slow down, think, and watch before you move. Speak softly, too. The human voice carries an incredible distance in the woods. But on top of that, staying quiet will help you hear game coming. The quieter you are, the easier it is to hear all the sounds around you, like a turkey gobbling on a distant ridge, or a deer shuffling through the hardwoods.

If you are hunting big game, your most important consideration is wind direction. The sense of smell is the most powerful survival characteristic for critters like deer, bears, elk, and antelope. The only way to truly beat a big game animal’s nose is to use the wind in your favor. You want stay downwind of the critters, but also downwind of their bedding areas and trails. A simple windicator is an essential tool for any big game hunter. It will help you see how the wind swirls in valleys or drainages and shifts throughout the day.

And you also have to beat wild game’s vision. Camouflage clothing is useful, especially for sharp-eyed game like turkeys or waterfowl, but it isn’t essential. Dressing in earth-tone clothing that is quiet and suitable for the weather conditions works just fine. The real secret is to use the terrain and conditions to avoid being spotted. Don’t stand at the top of an open hill or ridge. This is called skylining yourself, because you stick out obviously against the skyline. Try to keep the sun at your back when possible and stay in shaded areas (animals can catch the glare off you and your gear if you’re in open, direct sunlight). If you are stopping to take a break or maybe do some calling, keep a wide tree at your back. If you’re hanging a treestand, pick a spot where the trunk and branches will break up your outline. Always use the terrain around you to break up your human profile.

Be Patient

A lot of content and advertising around hunting pitches the experience as an action-packed, adrenaline-fueled, adventure. It’s true that those moments exist in hunting, but for most of the time you’ll be sitting quietly, watching, listening, and WAITING.

This in fact, is the hardest part of hunting for many people—establishing the right mindset so that you are happy to go into the woods by yourself and sit quietly for hours on end, while still being focused enough to detect game before it detects you.

The secret is to enjoy the wait. Slow it all down. Watch the natural world come alive around you. Listen to the birds, look for squirrels, stay alert and stay off your damn phone. If you do this for long enough, the critter you are hunting will appear and then the adrenaline-packed showdown can begin. But even if the critter doesn’t show, you’ll have appreciated a different experience—the experience of actually hunting. My general rule is this: Wait until you are totally certain no game will show up, then give it another 30 minutes (or just wait until legal shooting light ends). —A.R.

8. Field-Dressing, Butchering, and Cooking

By Gerry Bethge

The plan was a good one, and four years in the making. Tucked into my fanny pack was a laminated card with step-by-step illustrations on how to gut a deer. As a kid, I studied that card far more than I ever had my homework, praying that I’d someday need to refer to it. Although I had cached its words and line-drawings to memory, it brought confidence to a young hunter and I checked to make sure it was in its proper pocket, right next to the dragging rope, each time I went afield. Two days before Thanksgiving in 1977, I had cause to use it. The 6-point buck I shot with my bow only went 30 yards before dropping in a stream.

In the times before headlamps, gutting a deer in the dark meant trying to steady a flashlight on the deer’s brisket while unzipping the hide on its belly. That went okay, but in short order I found that I needed to refer to my instructional card. Once I shined my flashlight into the buck’s guts, I realized there was no orderly compartmentalization of lungs, heart, diaphragm, liver, and intestines, as my card suggested. It all looked intermingled—with lots of blood.

A full hour later—a rather macabre yet clean gutting job completed—I was finally on my way back to the house. I hung the buck to cool and, when I cooked that first piece of meat, the venison tasted better than anything I had ever eaten before. That lesson in wild-game handling would remain indelibly ingrained in my mind. Whether big game, small game, or wildfowl, what you do before and after the shot will have the biggest effect on its palatability.

These are my simple rules for great-tasting game each and every time.

1. Get to the Range

No matter what the hunting implement, becoming proficient with it is crucial for clean, quick kills. You owe it to the game that you are hunting and you owe it to the folks who will eventually be eating it. The only way to do it is to get to the gun or bow range as often as possible to practice. Shoot, shoot, shoot—and then shoot some more. Make certain that your gun or bow functions properly, but above all know your capabilities and avoid taking risky shots at game or birds. The more quickly it expires, the better it will taste.

2. Gut It Quickly

Proper field care of wild game should begin the moment the animal hits the ground. If not, the result will be poor or gamey-tasting meat. To avoid this, you need to be prepared with the proper tools. Most importantly, a sharp knife, latex gloves, and the proper means to transport your game. Whether you are gutting big game, small game, or birds, take the utmost care not to puncture the stomach contents, intestines, or bladder during the evisceration process or risk tainting the meat. It’s also important to avoid contaminating the internal body cavity with dirt or debris. If contamination does occur, wipe it clean as quickly as possible.

3. Cool It Down

Next to gut matter and dirt, heat is the biggest detriment to great tasting wild game. It’s, therefore, critical to cool down bird and animal carcasses as quickly and efficiently as feasible. Thorough field dressing begins the process and is typically sufficient if it is not too warm during a day hunt. If not too warm—40 degrees—big game can be hung in a garage or barn for several days prior to butchering, although the more consistent temperature of a walk-in cooler is far more ideal. Game birds and small game such as rabbits can be more quickly butchered and prepared for the freezer.

4. Cut It Up

Loads of information is available on proper game and bird butchering. But no rule is more important than to use the proper tools—a sharp knife, a skinning knife, and meat saw—and to work on a clean surface in order to keep the meat dirt-free. Although butchering your own game might seem intimidating at first, you’ll get the hang of it. If you’re not interested in trying this, you can always drop your deer off at a professional game processor. Plenty of hunters do this, and receive professionally cut and wrapped packages of venison in a few days. This will cost you somewhere between $50 to $120 for deer, depending on how big the animal is and how much your butcher charges.

If you want to try it yourself, here’s how. For big game, begin by extracting the inner loins located on the inside of the body cavity. They run along the spine. Most hunters remove these first, because they tend to dry out quickly. These and the backstraps, which are located along the backbone outside of the body cavity are considered to be the best portions of meat. Halve the backstraps for better portion size. Meat from the neck, front shoulders and legs is often ground and mixed with ground pork or beef fat for the best flavor and consistency, or turned into sausage. To prepare the larger hind quarters for freezing, simply separate the muscle groups by running your knife blade along the seams and lines that are clearly visible on the quarters. Once separated, these larger cuts of meat can be further cut into steaks or roasts to freeze.

Gamebirds and small game are even simpler to butcher. Once plucked, skinned, and washed, they can be either frozen whole or separated into smaller portions. For ducks and other gamebirds, you can also use your hands to tear open the skin above the breast, and then use a sharp knife to fillet the breast meat off the bone.

Read next: 10 Mistakes Most Hunters Make When Cooking Wild Game

5. Freeze It

Much like temperature is the enemy of game in the field, air is the enemy of game in the freezer. So no matter whether using a vacuum sealer or ordinary butcher wrap, it’s important to remove all the air from your packaging in order to avoid freezer burn. If opting for butcher wrap, it’s a good idea to first seal the meat in plastic wrap and then butcher paper. To ensure the best quality results, add several packages of meat to a resealable plastic freezer bag and immerse it into a sink of cold water. The water will force out all the air. Seal the bag, and now your game meat is ready for the freezer.

6. Cook It

Wild game and birds can provide some of the best meals available anywhere—if they’re prepared correctly. Poor-tasting game is almost always the result of having not followed the previous rules. Take proper care of game from field to freezer and it will almost always taste great—with a couple of caveats. Because game is naturally low in fat, it’s important not to overcook it unless you’re opting to use it in a braised dish or pot roast. Although some might disagree, it’s also full of deep, rich flavor making it a minimalist’s dream. Venison loin and steaks, for example, are served best when cooked medium rare in butter, salt, and pepper. Gamebird breasts and small game such as rabbit deserve similar treatment. It’s always fun to experiment with various recipes, but you might want to save that for store-bought meats and poultry.

The post How to Hunt: A Step-by-Step Guide for New Adult Hunters appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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A FEW YEARS AGO, Clay Newcomb bought his first mule. The unbroke female cost him one beat-up World War II rifle (complete with bayonet), a 1994 Honda FourTrax quad, and $500 cash. Three months later, after tearing through YouTube tutorials and calling a horse trainer once a week, Newcomb found himself the proud owner of a broke mule. Soon he started riding Izzie into the woods at night, racing after his Plott hounds, Fern and Jedi.

There’s a rich and somewhat bizarre tradition of Ozark hunters chasing raccoons with their mules, although it’s not widely practiced these days. But Newcomb isn’t the historical re-enactor type, and he’s not trying to revive the glory days of Ozark coon hunting. It’s admittedly a nod to tradition, but he mostly hunts with Izzie because he’s always wanted a mule, and he’s always hunted coons, so he might as well combine the two.

“There is something in human nature that greatly values partnering with an animal to do work. It’s so satisfying,” he says. “And from a practical standpoint, to ride a mule is an efficient way to hunt because you can cover a lot more ground. It’s just a good way to travel in the wilderness.”

Most nights, though, that efficiency takes a back seat to inclusivity, because there are typically more hunters than mounts. Tracking coons with the Newcombs is something of a party, and Clay is often accompanied by his three kids (who almost always bring a friend or two), a pair of dogs, one mule, and occasionally a donkey. Fortunately, they have plenty of room to roam, thanks to the nearby Ozark National Forest and landowner permission on several large private tracts.

“The best part of a hunt is when you’re all sitting there in the dark, talking, then bam—a dog barks,” Newcomb says. “It’s coon-hunting etiquette that no matter what you’re talking about, you stop talking. And boy, do new people pick it up quick.”

When Newcomb hears deep bawls from Jedi or Fern’s squalling barks, he knows the hunt is just getting started. 

This story originally ran in the Fall 2019 issue. Read more OL+ stories.

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ON ANY GIVEN weekend this summer, there’s a lionfish derby underway in Florida. As the lionfish population has exploded in recent years, so too has interest in targeting the invasive critters. Tournaments begin in late winter and stretch into the fall, with cash and other prizes incentivizing already-motivated spearfishermen to remove as many destructive fish as they can from vulnerable coral reefs in the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico. (The species is notorious for its voracious appetite: A single lionfish residing on a reef can reduce native reef fish recruitment by as much as 79 percent.)

The world’s biggest lionfish derby is the Emerald Coast Open, held in Destin, Florida, in mid-May. This year our photographer tagged along with one of the participating teams, captained by spearfisherman Tim Robinson. At 62, Robinson is a scuba instructor and the owner of ZooKeeper, which makes a sort of underwater creel for safely storing lionfish during dives and sponsors lionfish derbies across the state.

“This is not a problem that we’re going to eradicate. Lionfish multiply worse than rabbits,” says Robinson. “A female lionfish lays between 15 to 30,000 eggs every four to seven days, year-round. To put that into perspective, [participants] removed roughly 25,000 lionfish during this two-day derby, and then about a little over 5,000 in the pre-derby that started in February. And that’s basically the number of eggs that one female lionfish lays once a week.”

Not all the eggs in a clutch survive, of course, but Robinson’s math problem helps illustrate the sheer scale of the lionfish invasion. While he enjoys the larger mission of lionfish management, Robinson spends his weekend spearfishing for another reason.

“The truth is that we love it. We love spearing lionfish,” says Robinson. “It’s the thrill of the hunt. They’re not just out swimming around freely. In most cases, you have to hunt for them. It’s fun to come up with a dozen lionfish or a full ZooKeeper. I’ve had days when I couldn’t get any more lionfish in my ZooKeeper. It’s just a great feeling. So yes, we want to be part of the cause [to reduce lionfish] and do our part. But we really, truly love it. It’s just in our blood.”

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IT’S NOT THE endless daylight that prevents sleep, but the stillness. There is no breeze, no rustling leaves, no buzzing insects or hooting owls. Instead, the emptiness amplifies everything. A small avalanche of rock and snowmelt cascades from nearby cliffs into the sea—not a danger, but loud enough to make you jump. Glaciers groan as they settle. Humpbacks spout in the channel all night long.

My sisters and I are curled in bivvy sacks on a frozen beach on the Antarctic Peninsula, surrounded by some 30 other tourists and a couple fat Weddell seals. 

Besides us and the guides, few of our companions have ever camped before. It’s an odd introduction, in part because leave-no-trace practices don’t cut it in Antarctica. In the morning all footprints must be scuffed out with our boots. Neither food nor drink except water is allowed ashore, along with any gear that hasn’t undergone biosecurity checks. The latrine lecture is similarly strict and involves a good deal of giggling from the uninitiated.

Everyone follows the rules, except the massive cruise ship that lumbers into view and kills its engines across from our campsite. Eventually it groans to life again and disappears behind an island. An elegant three-mast barque in a nearby cove weighs anchor and follows suit. They haven’t left; they’re just hiding at our group’s request.

“There are 20 ships along the Peninsula right now,” a guide confided when I’d asked about fellow tourists. “You feel alone because they make you feel alone.”

All this babysitting and sleight of hand is the catch-22 of Antarctica, a continent that is at once a fragile ecosystem and a ruthless force of nature. Without scrutinizing tourists and their negative impacts (both of which are on the rise), humans will inevitably ruin what makes this place extraordinary.

Yet micromanaging wilderness defeats its purpose. There are still opportunities for true exploration in Antarctica today, but they’re highly supervised and subject to restrictions. This is a far cry from the freedom enjoyed by the Antarctic explorers of even a century ago, whose feats of endurance in these frozen badlands gave rise to some of the world’s greatest survival stories. Today, with the inherent risk of polar exploration stripped away, we’re also robbed of its full rewards.

The Seventh Continent

The prospect of being trapped in a floating hotel with a literal boatload of people is not my family’s idea of vacation. (Philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre wasn’t talking about cruises when he wrote that “hell is other people,” but he might as well have been.) You can fly to Antarctica, but the traditional way to experience it is by boat. So we booked the smallest ship we could manage and sailed south from Argentina with some 90 other passengers. It’s a 330-foot 1A ice-class ship that’s nearly 50 years old and, like most Antarctic cruises, marketed as an “expedition” vessel. During a mandatory safety briefing on our first day at sea, a middle-aged woman raised her hand.

“If someone falls overboard and they’re panicking, do you knock them out first before you pull them back on board?” Our expedition leader just stared, momentarily speechless. “Because,” she added, “I don’t want to be knocked out.”

Later, our guides share other gems. A German told us about one tourist who, upon clambering out of a Zodiac onto the beach, wanted to know their altitude.

“So how high are we right now?” he had wondered, the ocean lapping at his feet.

The winner, everyone agreed, was the man who waved skyward and asked, “Is this the same moon we have in Texas?”

ANTARCTICA IS BIGGER than Europe and shaped like a hurricane, with the lone arm of the Antarctic Peninsula and its islands stretching north toward the tip of South America. It takes an average of two days to sail between the continents. Ships must navigate the notorious Drake Passage, a turbulent convergence of oceans where the waves, whipped into frenzy by furious winds, can reach 40 feet.

In the winter, the Southern Ocean freezes in a halo around the continent. The ice retreats come summer, allowing ships to maneuver close to shore—usually along the Antarctic Peninsula—and disgorge tourists. More than a few have arrived eager to see polar bears, only to discover they don’t live in the Southern Hemisphere.

Instead, the rocky shores are teeming with seabirds like petrels and albatrosses, the latter of which can spend years at sea without returning to land. Good-natured Weddell seals and humpbacks are most common along the coast, though a dozen other seal and whale species can be spotted, too. But the main attraction are the six subspecies of penguins native to the continent. You can identify penguin colonies long before you hear or smell them by the muddy game trails through the snow. 

There are no land-based predators in Antarctica, and there is no wildlife or vegetation in interior Antarctica—only snow, ice, crevasses, and rugged mountain ranges. The continent itself is covered in the largest piece of ice on Earth and contains more than half of the planet’s freshwater. The ice is so heavy that it’s actually causing the land beneath it to sink into the sea.

No single country governs Antarctica. Instead, the Antarctic Treaty of 1959 laid the foundation for global cooperation around scientific research and, later, preservation. Hunting and fishing are strictly forbidden in a place that’s designated as “a natural reserve, devoted to peace and science.”

During the 2022 to 2023 tourism season, an estimated 106,000 passengers navigated the Drake to cruise along the continent. Nearly 64,000 of those went ashore (ships carrying more than 500 passengers are not allowed to make landings). Although this number represents just 2 percent of Yellowstone’s 2021 visitations, it’s a staggering 1,225 percent increase from the early 1990s, when 8,000 tourists visited Antarctica each year. With them come invasive species, vandalism to historical artifacts, and disruption to wildlife. 

Anja Blacha Skis to the South Pole, 2020

Before the daily Zodiac cruises, our guides scout. Every morning and afternoon they scatter in all directions before collecting tourists and trolling past the critters they glassed up earlier, as if stumbling upon them for the first time.

The discretion is deliberate. They don’t tell us we’re headed to see a rare penguin in case it vanishes before we get a good look. They use code when radioing each other for the same reason. It’s a simple system—L.S. for leopard seal, E.P. for emperor penguin—but many people don’t pay enough attention to crack it.

“I’ve got an H.B. at 10 o’clock,” our guide radios after a humpback surfaces off our bow. She’s a friendly Brit with one Antarctic season under her belt, and she’s a touch nervous. I ask how she likes the work.

“Some guides carry a plastic cup so they can scoop krill out of the water and show them to guests,” she says at one point, hesitating before adding, “I’m not sure how I feel about that.”

It’s clear that the idea of displacing a handful of krill, even for a moment, troubles her. Then she twists the throttle and the motor rumbles to life.

“Anyone have an iPhone?” she asks, brightening. “Want to take a time-lapse of an iceberg?”

BEFORE SHE SKIED to the South Pole, Anja Blacha was just another tourist.

In 2013 the German entrepreneur and her sister traveled to Peru, where they joined a “standard tourist trek” to Machu Picchu. That multiday hike was her first time in a sleeping bag or tent, and she had never spent so much time outdoors. 

Ten years later Blacha can’t begrudge tourists their chaperoned fun. Without it, she wouldn’t have gone on to become the youngest German woman to summit the tallest peak on every continent. That includes Mt. Everest, of course, but also Vinson Massif, the 16,050-foot peak at the base of the Antarctic Peninsula. In 2020 Blacha completed an 858 mile ski trek to the South Pole to achieve what was, at the time, the longest solo, unsupported polar expedition by any woman in history. (Her record has since been broken by Preet Chandi.) 

Although Blacha, now 32, has journeyed to the Arctic (“there’s a risk of polar bears there so I had to learn to shoot”), she says Antarctica is unique. “The sheer expanse of the continent is mind-blowing. I remember being in high camp at Vinson and just looking out around me and it looked like I was above the clouds. But everything was land mass and snow and ice. It’s so, so beautiful.”

Because of that vastness, Blacha sometimes lost a feel for judging distance on her ski trek. Snowcapped mountain ranges look like they could be 10 miles away or 100. Without referencing her GPS, it was disorienting. After just four days of skiing, conditions deteriorated into a brutal storm with gusts building to over 60 mph.

“It was just miserable and painful. My tent was taken up at night and I could barely walk up against the wind. I was crawling on my knees when I was trying to get to my sled,” Blacha says. “The fact that the storm hit me at the beginning was good because it really made me conscious of how important it is to use the moments when conditions are good.”

Moments of discovery—a wind-carved valley of blue ice, the thunder of untrodden snow settling beneath her skis—punctuated the exhausting tedium of long-distance sledging. If Blacha’s most dramatic challenge was the storm, the most insidious was simply staying her course.

“It’s the small moments,” Blacha says. “The transition times are the hardest. Like when you have to force yourself to get up and pack down your tent.… Those days where there’s no big hurdle, there’s no fighting against a big storm, just stretches that are not significant enough to give you that hero story, that boost of self-confidence. But they are enough to wear you out and slow you down significantly. You have this grinding obstacle, constantly.”

To cope, Blacha stuck to a schedule dictated by strict mileage and, to a degree, her provisions. A harness around her waist allowed her to drag camp, food, and fuel in a sled that initially weighed some 220 pounds.

“I had to remind myself that I wanted to do this because it would be hard. If it was easy, I wouldn’t have wanted to do it, so I shouldn’t complain and give up because it actually was hard.”

During her two-month expedition, Blacha was required to make a daily phone call to report her GPS location. It’s not enough to simply drop GPS waypoints. Regulators wanted to hear her voice so they could monitor her condition. This protocol was tightened after British explorer Henry Worsley died in 2016. (Thirty miles short of becoming the first person to cross Antarctica on foot, unassisted and unsupported, he called for help, writing: “My journey is at an end. I have run out of time, physical endurance and a simple sheer inability [sic] to slide one ski in front of the other to travel the distance required to reach my goal.”) 

Now there’s an elaborate personnel rotation to ensure a single operator doesn’t become acclimated to “a small deterioration in your voice day after day,” says Blacha. “This takes away from the feeling of being out there on your own and doing something self-sufficient. You feel very much remote monitored, in a way. I think that’s the one thing I don’t like. I feel like it’s micromanagement. It should be my responsibility as an expeditioner to determine what safety margins I’m willing to take.”

Despite the daily intrusion, she says the benefits of strict governance “of Antarctica—in terms of keeping it pristine and prioritizing scientific research and nature protection—outweigh the downsides.”

Blacha had chosen her route specifically because it had barely been traveled. After departing the coast, she didn’t see signs of life until reaching the final miles of her nearly 58-day trip. A century ago she would have reached what was arguably the loneliest part of the planet. In 2020, her journey ended in something like civilization.

“The area around the South Pole is [one of] the busiest, so that’s where you immediately start seeing human signs,” Blacha says, noting the U.S. research station there. About 30 countries operate some 80 bases in Antarctica. “I had to navigate around the Clean Air Sector to not pollute the air with my breath and my sweat and my body. And then the last 30 to 35 kilometers I would see ski tracks—and actually somebody’s trail mix—on the way. Which was not quite what it should be.”

Shackleton’s Endurance Expedition, 1914–1916

The shock of the saltwater is blinding, and I involuntarily gulp a mouthful as I push to the surface. I try to swim back to the Zodiac, but the guide just drags me there with a rope tethered to the harness around my waist.

It’s New Year’s Day and nearly every passenger is lined up for a polar plunge in the Southern Ocean. Shivering, I accept a warming vodka shot from a Swede in a party hat and watch more people fling themselves into the sea. Most likely the tethers are to prevent weak swimmers from drowning, or to retrieve the occasional tourist who goes into cardiac arrest once submerged in 30-degree water.

Maybe, I tell myself hopefully, it’s for when the leopard seals attack.

SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON was one of history’s greatest leaders. He was also something of a failure.

The British explorer’s fourth expedition to Antarctica collapsed at its outset. Ahead of his voyage to circumnavigate the continent, he suffered a fatal heart attack aboard his ship. Shackleton’s death in 1922 ended what historians call the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration and ushered in the Mechanical Age.

A few years before, on his third expedition to the continent, Shackleton intended to cross Antarctica. Instead his ship, Endurance, was imprisoned in pack ice after just one month. Shackleton, his crew of 27 men, one stowaway, and some 70 sled dogs drifted across the frozen Weddell Sea and through the Antarctic winter for 11 months. In the fall of 1912, the ice crushed and eventually sank the ship. For five months the men sledged across the ice floes, dragging lifeboats with them and subsisting on rations. During warmer months, they shot seals and bludgeoned penguins for meat.

“Returning from a hunting trip, [one man] traveling on skis across the rotting surface of the ice had just about reached camp when an evil, knoblike head burst out of the water just in front of him,” wrote Alfred Lansing in Endurance, arguably the best survival book ever written. “He turned and fled, pushing as hard as he could with his ski poles and shouting for Wild to bring his rifle. The animal—a sea leopard—sprang out of the water and came after him, bounding across the ice with the peculiar rocking horse gait of a seal on land. The beast looked like a small dinosaur, with a long serpentine neck … [and] an enormous array of sawlike teeth.”

The leopard seal dove and tracked the man’s shadow from beneath the thin ice, then burst through again to cut him off, corralling the man. Shackleton’s second in command, Frank Wild, arrived just in time. “Wild dropped to one knee and fired again and again at the onrushing beast. It was less than 30 feet away when it finally dropped. Two dog teams were required to bring the carcass into camp. It measured 12 feet long, and they estimated its weight at about 1,000 pounds.”

In his diary, skipper Frank Worsley described the leopard seal’s effectiveness as a predator. (His descendant is Henry Worsley, the Antarctic explorer who died in 2016.)

“A man on foot in soft, deep snow and unarmed would not have a chance against such an animal as they almost bound along with a rearing, undulating motion at least five miles an hour. They attack without provocation, looking on man as a penguin or seal.”

The crew leveraged this observation, and tried to decoy the next leopard seal.

“…When a sea leopard’s head appeared at the edge of the floe [Thomas] McLeod, who was a small but stocky man, went over and stood flapping his arms to imitate a penguin,” wrote Lansing. “…He sprang out of the water at McLeod, who turned and dashed for safety. The sea leopard humped forward once or twice, then stopped, apparently to take stock of the other strange creatures on the floe. The delay was fatal. Wild had reached into his tent for his rifle. He took deliberate aim and fired, and another thousand pounds of meat was added to the larder.”

Once Shackleton’s crew made it to open water, the men managed to sail three lifeboats to an uninhabited island, where they survived on penguins, seals, and their sled dogs. From there, Shackleton took five men and the sturdiest lifeboat and sailed 800 miles across the stormy Drake Passage to South Georgia Island. To reach the whaling station, Shackleton navigated crevasses and glaciers on a journey that wasn’t replicated until 40 years later by a team of expert climbers with appropriate gear. By the time Shackleton reached help and was able to rescue his marooned crew, two years had passed since the Endurance set sail. Not a single man died.

The second time Shackleton journeyed to Antarctica, he and his men sledged to within 97 miles to the South Pole before being forced to turn back. At the time it was the farthest south anyone had ever traveled. 

Shackleton’s first expedition to Antarctica was under the command of Robert Falcon Scott. Scott would later lose the race for the South Pole against Norwegian Roald Amundsen, reaching it weeks after Amundsen and dying of starvation and exposure on his return journey.

“For a joint scientific and geographical piece of organization, give me Scott,” one of Scott’s men, Apsley Cherry-Garrard, wrote in The Worst Journey in the World. “…For a dash to the Pole and nothing else, Amundsen; and if I am in the devil of a hole and want to get out of it, give me Shackleton every time.”

Roald Amundsen’s Belgica Expedition, 1897–1899

If I don’t give the Southern Ocean my full attention, I might actually flip. My kayak lurches in the rollers as I juggle my paddle and gear for a few tricky minutes, stowing cameras in a dry bag then reattaching the spray skirt. We’re navigating an iceberg field and the surf is plunging and slapping against the bergs, revealing their eroded undersides.

I fall behind as I drift, and two middle-aged women in a tandem kayak wobble by. Despite days of paddling together, their strokes are still comically out of sync. They’re dawdling, clearly hoping we’ll return to calm water.

“Where the hell is she going?” one woman demands. She’s staring after our guide, who is vanishing and reappearing between each wave.

“Out to open ocean, apparently,” the other grumbles.

This is the first time we’ve approached anything close to real risk all week. I dig my paddle into the chop and glide past the irritable tourists, letting the swell pull me out to sea.

THE NORWEGIAN EXPLORER Roald Amundsen was often referred to as “the last of the Vikings.” Although he later became the first person to reach the South Pole, he initially ventured to Antarctica in 1897 to chart much of the Antarctic Peninsula. (Pack ice also trapped the ship on that expedition, forcing the crew of the Belgica to overwinter in 24-hour darkness and temperatures that plunged as low as -45 degrees F. There were cold-weather clothes for just four men aboard. “Mentally,” an American crewmate wrote later, “the outlook was that of a madhouse.”)

To learn to survive in the frozen South, Amundsen looked to the North. While successfully navigating the Northwest Passage—the first man to do so—Amundsen’s ship again became trapped in ice. His crew met Inuit tribes, including the Netsilik, and spent two years learning to build igloos and dress properly. Instead of constricting wool, the Netsilik gifted Amundsen sewn caribou hides, whose hollow hairs trap heat for insulation. Their loose fit also allowed better circulation. 

“I find it excellent,” Amundsen wrote after testing them. “Now I can move as I want to. Am always warm, without sweating.”

He also noted certain tricks that made overland travel infinitely easier, from using and handling dogs to maneuvering sledges through variable snow conditions.

“One can’t do better in these matters than copy the [Inuit], and let the runners get a fine covering of ice,” he wrote. “Then they slide like butter.”

Amundsen was successful in completing his polar expeditions—the Northwest Passage and the South Pole—because of his thoroughness. He approached all things—his gear, his ship, the selection of his crew—with the rigor of any outdoorsman who wished to be prepared for whatever he might face. He also recognized the importance of calculated risk. All the great Antarctic explorers did—including those who did not achieve their goals, or lost their lives in their pursuit of them.

“Generally the risks were taken, for, on the whole, it is better to be a little over-bold than a little overcautious,” wrote Cherry-Garrard. “Always there was something inside urging you to do it just because there was a certain risk, and you hardly liked not to do it. It is so easy to be afraid of being afraid!”

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Best Overall		Garmin TT15x	SEE IT
Best Value		SportDog Tek 1.5	SEE IT
Best Everyday		Fi Series 3	SEE IT

There are few worse feelings than not knowing where your dog is; GPS dog collars can fix that. It’s common to lose sight of your pup when hunting thick cover, and it’s guaranteed when you’re running pointers or a far-ranging pack of hounds. But it’s also all too common for dogs to get separated from you and, in the worst cases, truly lost. 

The best way to monitor your dog while he’s off-leash is to invest in a tracking collar. These are typically divided into two categories: purpose-built GPS collars for hunting and working dogs, and everyday trackers more commonly used to keep tabs on the family pet. Both types of collars have their advantages, and that’s why I tested some of the best GPS dog collars that are available right now. As more collars become available for testing this summer, we’ll evaluate them and add them to this review. Here are our top picks:

• Most Accurate: Garmin TT15x
• Best Value: SportDog Tek 1.5
• Best for Everyday: Fi Series 3

How I Tested the Best GPS Dog Collars

I conducted this test in rural, suburban, and urban environments to evaluate each collar’s cellular and GPS coverage, as well as potential interference from both terrain and technology. Bird dog training sessions were conducted with my 2-year-old retriever, Hatchet, in tall grass, timber, farm ponds, and steep terrain, as well as in suburban neighborhoods and a remote U.S. Forest Service tract.

I put the collars on Hatchet and enlisted a buddy to run him up to a mile away, then verified that track with the handheld and smartphone readings to check tracking accuracy. The GPS collars were also placed at known distances (100 yards and 200 yards, measured with a laser rangefinder) and compared to their handheld location tracking. In addition to running Hatchet through repeated water retrieves in both freshwater and saltwater with each collar, they were submerged in a tub of freshwater for 30 minutes to test water resistance (all the collars in this test passed without incident). The individual features of each collar—lights, battery life, e-collar training functionality, perimeter alerts, etc.—were also tested in the field.

Hatchet and I have been training together and with professionals for two years. He normally wears a SportDog 825X e-collar during training and hunting, and was comfortable with even the heaviest GPS collar he wore in this test. He’s close-ranging on upland hunts but allowed to wander barnyards and surrounding fields whenever we’re in rural areas, where he constantly works cover and occasionally chases rabbits and other critters out of sight.

Best GPS Dog Collars: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Overall: Garmin TT 15X 

Natalie Krebs

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The Garmin TT15X is an accurate tracking and training collar with all the bells and whistles. It’s compatible with a variety of Garmin’s handheld devices (sold separately); we tested the TT15X with the new Alpha 300i handheld.

Key Features

• Collar dimensions: 3.5 x 1.75 x 1.85 inches
• Collar strap: 1-inch wide, 27 inches long 
• Total collar weight: 10.3 ounces (tester measured)
• Handheld: Not included; compatible with Garmin Alpha models, Astro 430, Pro 550 Plus; tested with Alpha 300i, weighs 10.4 ounces (tester measured)
• Battery type: Rechargeable lithium-ion; user-replaceable
• Charging cord: USB, proprietary
• Advertised battery life: Up to 80 hours
• Advertised range: 9 miles
• Waterproof rating: Up to 10 meters (1 ATM)
• Lights: Beacon LED with multiple settings, controlled remotely
• Rescue mode: Yes
• Sleep mode: Yes, with certain handheld devices
• E-collar training: Yes; 18 stimulation levels (continuous and momentary), plus tone and vibration
• Includes: Standard and long-range antenna, vehicle power cable

Pros

• Most accurate tracking
• Easy e-collar access while tracking
• Infinitely customizable for your hunting style
• Compatible with Garmin watches

Cons

• Requires a separate purchase of a handheld device
• Bulkiest collar

Garmin is unrivaled in its Iridium satellite-supported InReach devices that many hunters already rely on in the backcountry, and its TT15X GPS dog collar is no exception. While bird hunters and houndsmen will appreciate the feature-packed TT15X (with an advertised 9-mile range in the best conditions), this collar would also work well for a dedicated blood tracking dog and his handler, thanks to its waypoint functionality and detailed tracks. The TT15x’s GPS was the clear accuracy winner, with nuanced tracking that showed my dog’s every move. The GPS tracking interface is info-packed and intuitive, with multiple displays to track your dog, including maps.

In fact, there’re so many features packed into the TT15X that it can take some getting used to, with everything from Garmin watch pairing and SOS functionality with an InReach subscription to proximity alarms and competition timers. Customization is available for nearly any feature your pup might need, including GPS collar lights, point/treed alerts, e-collar stimulation buttons, and more.

The GPS unit on the collar was the bulkiest and heaviest in the test (though it’s comparable in design to the SportDog Tek 1.5, and has been updated with the TT 25 collar model). But that’s a minor gripe about an otherwise stellar unit that can track your dog anywhere he might go. The bottom line: If you have the budget for an ongoing subscription and a separate handheld device, the Garmin TT15X is one of the best GPS dog collars on the market.

Best Value: SportDog Tek 1.5LT

Natalie Krebs

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This no-nonsense GPS tracking collar from SportDog includes both tracking and e-collar training capabilities.

Key Features

• Handheld included
• Multiple dog tracking: Up to 12 collars
• Advertised range: Up to 7 miles
• Size: Fits dogs 8 pounds or larger with neck sizes 10.75 – 23 inches
• E-collar: Yes; 99 stimulation levels (momentary, continuous, rising), plus tone and vibration
• Total collar weight: 9 ounces (tester measured)
• Handheld weight: 7.3 ounces (tester measured)
• Waterproof: Handheld is submersible up to 5 feet; collar up to 25 feet
• Rechargeable lithium-ion batteries
• Charging cord: USB, proprietary
• Advertised battery life: GPS collar charges in 4 hours and lasts 24 hours per charge; handheld charges in 2 hours; lasts 20 hours per charge (tester confirmed)
• Includes lanyard 

Pros

• Handheld included
• Easy to use out of the box
• Simple, straightforward function
• E-collar integration
• One-time purchase

Cons

• No maps on the handheld device
• Compass calibration required ahead of each hunt for tracking accuracy
• Manual magnetic declination angle selection required after traveling

The SportDog Tek 1.5’s combined GPS unit and e-collar is intuitive for a new user and simple to deploy in the field. It incorporates essential tracking features with the company’s proven e-collar technology and doesn’t make you fork over extra cash for features you won’t ever use, making it an uncomplicated alternative to the Garmin TT15X’s bells and whistles. There are no ongoing subscriptions or extra purchases required to use the Tek 1.5, either.

I do wish this device had the option to track using maps, since it can be difficult to compare your dog’s real location without topographical features. But that’s also part of the Tek 1.5’s appeal: It simply points you toward your dog’s location, with details about how far away he is and how fast he’s moving, along with accurate on-point alerts when your dog stops. For closer-ranging dogs, like pointers and setters that work nearby and up to a few hundred yards away, this GPS dog collar is a great option. If you’re wanting to track a pack of hounds across miles of country, consider a pricier collar with more mapping functionality.

There are a few minor features that are a little clunky, including limited access to e-collar buttons from the tracking screen. For example, I use an e-collar tone to recall my bird dog in the field, but only the continuous stimulation button is functional from the tracking screen. Still, it’s easy enough to toggle between the tracking and training screen, and long term use would make accessing the full e-collar commands second nature while tracking. Overall, the Tek 1.5 is easy to use and offers all the essential features a hunter needs to track a hard-working bird dog.

Best Everyday: Fi Series 3

Natalie Krebs

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This is the third generation of Fi dog tracking collar; I tested the Large model.

Key Features

• Sizes: Five; XS to XL 
• Fasteners: Sizes XS to M have plastic buckles; L to XL buckles are stainless steel
• Durability: Stainless steel tracker can “sustain 400 lbs of static force”
• Dustproof and water resistant: IP68 & IP66k
• Collar material: Nylon
• Total collar weight: 4.9 ounces(tester measured)
• Tracker dimensions: 1 x 2 x .5 inches
• Location tracking: AT&T LTE-M, three satellite networks (GPS, GLONASS, and Galileo)
• Tracking range: LTE cell coverage (within the US only)
• Syncs with smartphone app
• Maps: Yes
• Tracking functionality: Walk, escape, and lost dog modes
• Activity tracking: Steps, Sleep, Strain
• Battery life: Up to 3 months (advertised); realistically 1 to 2 months with normal use, 21 hours in lost dog mode with good cell coverage (user tested)
• Subscription: Yes, includes cost of collar, charging cradle
• Light: Multiple colors, controlled via smartphone app

Pros

• Low profile, lightweight
• Durable device and hardware for everyday wear and tear
• Low upfront cost
• Long battery life
• Uses smartphone app; no handheld device to charge or carry

Cons

• Least accurate location tracking
• Poor to nonexistent tracking in remote areas with bad cell service
• Requires subscription

If you’re looking for an everyday tracking collar for your family dog, the Fi Series 3 is a great choice. The tracker is slim and integrated into the included collar with a low-maintenance battery life that your dog can wear around the clock. The collar relies on AT&T’s LTE M network plus GPS for tracking your dog’s location, which you can monitor using Fi’s smartphone app. (You don’t need AT&T as your cell phone provider to use a Fi collar.)

Fi allows you to set perimeters around geographic locations, like your home and yard, or maybe the rental cabin where you’re staying for a week. If you’ve got a Houdini who’s prone to slipping off, you can choose to receive a notification that your dog has “escaped” these perimeters without an owner. The Series 3 collar automatically detects walks and car rides, and you can manually activate lost dog mode if your dog runs off or goes missing. This feature combines LTE-M and GPS technology to ping your dog’s collar at least once every minute. Fi refers to this as your dog’s “real-time live GPS” location. Sometimes your dog’s location is displayed accurately and other times it lags; in rural areas, it can be downright useless. For good tracking performance with the Fi Series 3, you must be in an area with good AT&T cell service. 

My bird dog will occasionally take off after wild critters, leaving my unfenced yard or disappearing while we’re out in the woods. Most of the time he returns before lost dog mode can pinpoint his location. Once, while scouting in a remote national forest this spring, he ran off while wearing his Fi Series 3. I had just one bar of cell service (also AT&T), and the lost dog mode could not lock onto his location. I used an old fashioned whistle and he came trotting back after half an hour, and well before the Fi app ever registered his location. There simply wasn’t good enough service to track my dog using Fi’s technology.

During the known-distance tests in multiple locations, Fi wasn’t super accurate. At 100 yards, Fi told me my dog was still with me; at 200 yards with lost dog mode engaged, the app told me I was standing within 50 feet of my dog. That said, when the Fi was in lost dog mode during accuracy testing in a suburban area, it almost exactly matched the Garmin TT15X track. Fi’s path of travel was less precise than Garmin’s, but it would have been plenty useful for finding my dog if he’d actually been lost.

The Fi’s battery drains faster in areas with poor connectivity and while in lost dog mode, when the collar is constantly pinging (or attempting to ping) its GPS network. My testing showed that, in a suburban area with good AT&T coverage, a fully-charged Fi Series 3 battery lasted 21 hours in lost dog mode. Normal use in poor coverage areas can also run down the battery quickly. With normal everyday use, however, the Fi Series 3 collar will work for more than a month and possibly even two, on a single charge. 

The collar is equipped with an app-controlled, color-changing light. It’s not especially bright, however, and functions more as an indicator light than a beacon.

Fi is marketed to “dog parents,” which means it offers a few frivolous features that have nothing to do with locating your dog. That includes the ability to connect with other Fi users or post puppy photos in a newsfeed. The Fi Series 3 is also an activity monitor that will track your dog’s steps and sleep habits (metrics designed to improve quality of living for house dogs who get more treats than exercise). I do find step tracking and auto walk detection useful on the rare occasions that I’m traveling without my dog or need someone to let him out midday. A quick glance at my phone tells me my dog is being cared for properly. 

The Series 3 model, released in fall 2022, is a massive improvement over Fi’s Series 2 model, which wasn’t super accurate or intuitive to remove from third-party collars for charging. (In fact, my dog’s Series 2 device fell off the collar more than once; the third time this happened the tracking functionality was poor enough that I was never able to locate it.) This tracking collar’s price is included in a weekly membership of a couple bucks, which makes this collar relatively affordable compared to the other GPS trackers in this test, which cost hundreds of dollars upfront.

Despite its limitations in poor service areas, the Fi Series 3 is an affordable, low-maintenance GPS dog collar that works infinitely better than an Apple air tag and will ultimately help many dog owners track down their lost dog.

How to Choose a GPS Dog Collar

First, consider your budget and your goals for your dog. Do you just want a low-maintenance tracker to spy on the dog walker or locate Fido after he escapes the yard? Or are you a dedicated hunter with a pack of bird dogs or hounds who needs the best GPS dog collar available for precise tracking in rugged, remote locations? Many GPS collars from hunting brands like Garmin, Dogtra, and Sportdog also include e-collar training functionality, so consider whether you want or need a combination collar for training and reinforcement in the field.

Once you’ve identified the type of tracking collar you want, shop around for the models that fit your budget. Does your collar require a subscription to a GPS service or is it a one-time purchase? Will you have to purchase additional equipment, like a handheld device to go with the collar? Next, consider the environment where you’ll use the collar most often. Do you live in the suburbs or the country? Do you hunt rural areas where you’ll want integrated maps and an SOS function on your GPS handheld device?

When you’re down to deciding between just a few models, compare the smaller functions that are most important to you, such as collar lights and waypoint functionality, and decide from there.

FAQs

Why Trust Outdoor Life?

Since 1898, OL has been a leading authority in testing and reviewing hunting gear, fishing tackle, guns and shooting equipment, and much more. We have more than a century-long history of evaluating products, and we’re now bringing that expertise to online reviews. Our editors are experienced outdoorsmen and women, and most importantly, we’re trained journalists. We prioritize field testing and objective data when reviewing products. We conduct interviews with gear manufacturers and engineers as well as outdoor experts so that our readers have an understanding of how and why a product works—or doesn’t.

Advertising does not influence our gear reviews and it never will. While we always focus our coverage on standout products—because we want our readers to be aware of the latest and greatest gear—we also cover the flaws and quirks of any given product.

Final Thoughts

There’s a range of GPS dog collars out there and each is designed for a specific type of dog and dog owner. No matter if you’re looking for an everyday tracking device or the best GPS dog collars for your pack of hard-hunting hounds, you can find a GPS collar for you. They might seem expensive, but just remember: Your dog’s health and safety is worth way more than the cost of a GPS collar. So do yourself a favor and invest in one. The next time your pup breaks out of the yard or vanishes into thick cover, you’ll be glad you did.

• Most Accurate: Garmin TT15x
• Best Value: SportDog Tek 1.5
• Best for Everyday: Fi Series 3

The post The Best GPS Dog Collars of 2023, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Two professional walleye anglers received fines and jail time Thursday morning for cheating in a walleye fishing tournament on Lake Erie last year, concluding a highly publicized scandal that turned the national spotlight on competitive fishing.

Defendants Chase Cominsky and Jacob Runyan had been on track to win a Sept. 30 Lake Erie Walleye Trail tournament, some $28,000 in prize money, and Team of the Year. But as an Ohio state prosecutor noted during the sentencing hearing Thursday, tournament directors had grown suspicious of the team’s “curiously unprecedented run of success” leading up to that tournament. Shortly after weighing in their walleyes, the teammates were discovered to have stuffed their catch with lead weights and walleye filets.

Read Next: The Real Problem with the Infamous Walleye Tournament Cheating Scandal

Judge Steven E. Gall delivered their punishment in the Cuyahoga County Common Pleas Court of Ohio. Both Cominsky and Runyan had plead guilty to felony charges of cheating, attempted grand theft, possessing criminal tools, and a final charge related to unlawful ownership of wild animals (the last charge refers to the walleye fillets included with the weights). All charges were delivered by a Cuyahoga County grand jury on Oct. 12.

The hearing ended when Cominsky, now 36, and Runyan, now 43, were handcuffed and taken into custody to begin a 10-day jail sentence, after which they will be released on probation for a year and a half.

Cominsky and Runyan were also fined $2,500, half of which Gall said he would suspend if they made charitable contributions to a children’s fishing non-profit, mentioning organizations like Cast for Kids and the Ike Foundation. Both men also received the maximum three-year suspension of their fishing licenses. Cominsky’s Ranger boat and trailer, which had previously been seized during the execution of a search warrant, were also forfeited.

The prosecution noted Thursday that the fishing boat was not only likely purchased using winnings from illegally won tournaments, but that it was also a “criminal tool” that helped Cominsky and Runyan actively cheat during the tournament.

“When the ODNR law enforcement officers executed a warrant and seized that boat and photographed that boat, they found a compartment on that boat that literally smelled fishy,” said assistant Cuyahoga County prosecutor James Gallagher.  “And [it] was sort of customized to have a secret compartment that would enable these defendants to conceal—whether it be fish that they caught the day before or the lead weights that would allow them to potentially pass a boat inspection.”

The prosecution presented photos of a metal faceplate underneath the Ranger’s console. Officials noted that the screws, which normally keep it watertight, had been removed.

“It smelled particularly foul when they opened it up,” Gallagher said.

Gallagher also played video footage captured at the tournament ahead of including footage of Runyan and Cominsky’s weigh-in, tournament director Jason Fischer’s discovery of the lead-stuffed walleye, and the crowd’s furious reaction.

“I’ve run approximately 19 events [since 2019]. The defendants in this case have won nine of those [19] events, and 11 top finishes in total. So over 50 percent of my events they’ve done well in. And I read a statistic somewhere that somebody who steals or is a thief gets caught approximately one out of 48 times,” Fischer told the court in a victim impact statement, adding that the next closest finisher had won just two events in total. “I treated them as my friends, I worked on their boats, I talked to them, I called them, I defended them many times against my own friends.”

The professional fishing community, Fischer said, had received substantial negative publicity as a result of Cominsky and Runyan’s actions. As a result, the Lake Erie Walleye Trail was not able to renew its permits for this year’s competition.

“We had to move events because Cleveland Metro Parks didn’t want the drama you just saw,” Fischer said, referring to the videos of the angry crowd.

Defense attorney Gregory Gentile said that Cominsky and Runyan have suffered “seemingly endless negative public humiliation” since the cheating scandal, but that they have accepted full responsibility for their actions.

While the defense anticipated the three-year fishing license suspension, Gentile says his clients’ actions have already created what’s “effectively a lifetime suspension for them. They’re never going to fish a tournament again… When they go on a date, apply for a job, this case is going to come up.”

Both defendants spoke on their own behalf just ahead of sentencing.

“I just want to apologize to you, Your Honor, apologize to my family, my friends, the fishing community,” Cominsky said. He also apologized directly to Fischer, looking across the room at the tournament director. “I feel embarrassed. Super embarrassed. It was a bad action that we made, I will live with it for the rest of my life, and it’s something that my kids will probably end up seeing while growing up. It really hurts. I wish I could take it back.”

“This is embarrassing, I’m ashamed, most ignorant decision I’ve ever made in my life,” Runyan said, also apologizing to Fischer and the community in a short statement.

Just before delivering the 10-day jail sentence and concluding the hearing, Judge Gall addressed the two men.

“I do genuinely believe that you gentlemen are remorseful,” Gall said Thursday. “But there is a consideration for deterrence, which I think is also [an] equally important consideration.”

Gall initially handed down a 30-day jail sentence but suspended it. Violation of probation will result in a 12-month prison sentence.

The post Walleye Anglers Taken into Custody for Jail Time After Fishing Tournament Cheating Scandal appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Patterning Pump		Remington 870 Turkey Camo	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary A proven reliable gun with an ambidextrous safety.
Best Classic Semi-Auto		Remington 1100 Turkey	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary This shotgun set the benchmark for the quality of gas-operated autos.
Most Underrated		TriStar Viper G2 Turkey	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Reliable, moderately priced, and gas driven.

One of the hottest trends in the shotgun market is the “turkey gun.” Today, the best turkey shotguns are typically variants of a shotgun that was designed for waterfowl or small game hunters with stocks and barrels that are shortened to make the guns easier to carry and more maneuverable in tight cover. Gun makers added pistol grips for a more rifle-like shooting experience and many turkey guns have receivers that are drilled and tapped for optics. They all come with chokes designed specifically for printing tight, gobbler-killing patterns. 

There are as many variations of a turkey hunting gun as there are versions of turkey hunting styles. There are hefty, long range guns for hunters who want to sit in a blind and kill turkeys beyond 50 yards. There are compact, maneuverable guns for private-land hunters who want to crawl their way through the season, reaping turkeys at close range. And there are classic pump shotguns for traditionalists who believe the only way to kill a turkey is in the woods with your back resting against a tree. So our team of editors put together a list of the best turkey shotguns for all the different styles of turkey hunting and types of turkey hunters.  

• Best Custom Shotgun: Benelli Super Black Eagle 3 Turkey Performance Shop
• Best Gas Semi-Auto Shotgun: Beretta A350 Xtrema Turkey
• Best Bottom-Eject Shotgun: Browning BPS NWTF Turkey
• Best 10-Gauge Shotgun: Browning Gold Light
• Best Youth Shotgun: CVA Scout Compact
• Best Classic Gun: Ithaca Model 37 Turkey Slayer
• Best Budget Pump: Mossberg 500 Turkey
• Best 3.5-Inch Pump: Mossberg 835 Ulti-Mag Turkey
• Best Patterning Pump: Remington 870 Turkey Camo
• Best .410 Turkey Gun: Mossberg 500 Turkey .410, Optics Ready
• Best Single-Shot .410: Stevens 301 Turkey Obsession .410
• Best 28-Gauge Turkey Gun: Mossberg SA-28 Tactical Turkey
• Best Classic Semi-Auto: Remington 1100 Turkey
• Most Underrated: TriStar Viper G2 Turkey
• Best Affordable Semi-Auto: Winchester SX4 NWTF Cantilever Turkey
• Best Bolt-Action: Savage 212 Turkey

History of the Turkey Gun

Turkey-specific shotguns haven’t been around all that long when you consider hunters have been taking break-actions and repeaters into the woods to chase wild game for hundreds of years.
During the Depression, the turkey population dipped to 30,000 birds, so there wasn’t a need to build a platform that catered specifically to turkey hunters. For much of the 20^th century, your turkey gun was whatever shotgun you owned. That’s not the case anymore. With the restoration of turkey populations across the U.S. and Canada (there were almost 7 million birds between both countries by the early 2000s), the dedicated turkey gun became popular.

Read Next: Best Camo for Turkey Hunting

Best Turkey Shotguns: Reviews & Recommendations

Best Custom Turkey Hunting Gun: Benelli Super Black Eagle 3 Turkey Performance Shop

Benelli

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Key Features

• 24-inch barrel
• Burris FastFire II red-dot
• Mossy Oak camouflage finish
• 3½-inch chamber

Pros

• Pistol grip adds steadiness
• Burris optic delivers better accuracy
• Enlarged bolt handle and “slammer button” bolt release make the gun easier to operate

Cons

• It’s light for a turkey gun, which means more recoil
• Expensive

Rob Roberts is a master at getting the most out of shotgun pattern performance. The Arkansas gunsmith, known for his aftermarket choke tubes, teamed up with Benelli on the SBE3 Turkey Performance Shop. Roberts lengthens the forcing cones inside the 24-inch barrel and adds a custom .655 choke to deliver superior pattern density. The 12-gauge also comes with a Burris FastFire II red-dot so hunters can be more accurate with shot placement. A 3½-inch gun that only weighs 6.8 pounds, the SBE3 is inertia-driven, so 2-ounce turkey loads will sting your shoulder a bit more than if you were shooting a gas gun. An extended pistol grip allows you to better stabilize the gun, which is important in turkey hunting because you’ll be aiming the gun like it’s a rifle. —Joe Genzel

Best Gas Semi-Auto Turkey Gun: Beretta A350 Xtrema Turkey

Beretta

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Key Features

• 24-inch barrel
• Aluminum Picatinny rail
• Micro recoil pad
• 3½-inch chamber

Pros

• Gas-operated for softer recoil
• Drilled and tapped for an optic

Cons

• Expensive for a dedicated turkey gun
• At that price point, it should come with an optic

Released in 2017, the A350 was Beretta’s first dedicated 3½-inch auto-loader for turkey hunters. The A350 debuted as a waterfowl shotgun, bridging the gap in price between the A300 Outlander and A400 Xtreme. Beretta shortened the barrel to 24 inches on the turkey model and added an aluminum rail on the top of the action—which leads into a stepped, ventilated rib—for mounting an optic. It’s a gas gun, so hunters will feel less recoil than with an inertia-driven gun. Beretta also equipped the shotgun with its Blink system, which cycles shotshells fast, though it’s not a necessity on a turkey gun unless you miss and need a quick follow up shot. There is a Micro Core recoil pad screwed into the buttstock to help absorb the recoil of heavy turkey loads. An extended extra-full turkey choke comes standard. It’s an Optima-Choke system, which is used by many of Beretta’s high-end guns, like the DT11 and DT10. The camouflage finish of the A350 is in Mossy Oak Obsession. —J.G.

Best Bottom-Eject Turkey Gun: Browning BPS NWTF Turkey

Browning

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Key Features

• 24-inch barrel
• Pump action
• Bottom eject
• 3½-inch chamber
• HiViz front sight

Pros

• Pump-action reliability
• Bottom eject keeps action clean
• Optics ready

Cons

• It’s heavy (almost 8 pounds)
• Pricey: BPS shotguns are almost $1,000

The BPS was made for turkey hunters. Since the load gate and ejection port are one in the same, there’s less of a chance for mud and grime to find their way into the chamber and gunk up your gun. That’s important for turkey hunters, who are mostly sitting on the forest floor. You can buy the BPS in a 3½-inch chamber, but I like the 3-inch model for turkey hunting. First, the travel on the fore-end when you need to eject a spent shotshell and load a new one is shorter, and the gun itself is two inches shorter than the 3½-inch 12-gauge. The receiver is drilled and tapped for an optic, plus there is a 4-in-1 Hi-Viz fiber-optic sight system, which includes a rear and front sight for better accuracy. The downside to a BPS is its weight. They are nearly 8-pound guns even in the composite model (wood and steel BPS’ are heavier). But the weight tames much of the felt recoil, and there are sling swivels, so you can haul the gun over the shoulder if you buy a strap. —J.G.

Best 10-Gauge Turkey Hunting Gun: Browning Gold Light

Browning

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Key Features

• Gas operated
• Low recoil
• 3½-inch chamber
• Inflex recoil pad

Pros

• Manageable recoil
• Superior shotshell payloads
• Well balanced

Cons

• It’s a heavy 10-pound gun
• Length (the Gold Light is 4-feet long)

The almost-10-pound 10-gauge Gold Light is anything but light. That said, if you’re not a run-and-gun turkey hunter, a 10 loaded with a 3½-inch lead or tungsten shotshell that has a shot charge of 2 ounces or more is an absolute hammer on gobblers. The knock on 10 gauges is that they shoot bigger shells so they must produce more recoil, but that’s not the case. Since the Gold Light is a heavy gas-driven gun, the recoil is comparable to a 12-gauge auto. Turkey hunters should opt for the shorter 26-inch barrel, but this is a long shogun (48 inches with a 26-inch barrel and 50 inches with a 28-inch barrel), so it’s not ideal for river-bottom thickets or heavily forested ridgelines. It can be hard to find turkey ammo for 10s because there are only two in production (the BPS is the other), but it’s an ideal gauge for tough old toms because of the increased payload capability of its shotshells. The Gold Light is a well-balanced gun, and though it is nearly 10 pounds, that weight is evenly distributed, which makes it easier to carry. —J.G.

Best Youth Turkey Hunting Shotgun: CVA Scout Compact

CVA

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Key Features

• Scope rail
• Jebs X-Full Turkey choke
• 22-inches long total

Pros

• Lightweight
• Virtually no recoil
• Aftermarket choke comes standard
• Price
• Lifetime warranty

Cons

• Hammer gun, so you must cock it
• Not legal in every state

Single-shots are making a comeback in the turkey woods and .410s (where legal) have carved out a niche among turkey hunters willing to pay the price for TSS shotshells. If you desire both those elements in a shotgun, the Scout is an ideal platform. The scope rail allows you to mount almost any optic to it (you’ll need one shooting a .410). Plus, the comb of the stock is raised like you would find on a rifle to make it easier to see through a mounted scope or red dot. It’s only a 6-pound gun, and just 22 inches long without the included Jebs X-Full choke. Length of pull can be adjusted from 13 to 14 inches, so even though the Scout is “compact” it’s still a comfortable gun to shoot regardless of your size. There is a thick recoil pad affixed to the buttstock, but with the dainty charge weights of .410 ammo, recoil is a non-issue. It is a hammer gun, so you will have to cock it before shooting, which does take extra time you may not have if a longbeard gives you a tight shot window. —J.G.

Best Classic Turkey Hunting Gun: Ithaca Model 37 Turkey Slayer

Ithaca Gun Company

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Key Features

• Bottom eject
• 24-inch barrel
• Rifle sights

Pros

• Reliability of a pump shotgun
• Better accuracy with rifle sights
• Manageable weight for a pump

Cons

• Pricey for a pump
• No wood and steel option
• Cross-bolt safety on a bottom eject

The 37 has enjoyed one of the longest runs in pump shotgun history. Based on a John Browning design, the Ithaca Model 37 was originally set to debut in 1933 after the Browning patents expired. But it was discovered that gunmaker John Pederson also held some of the design patents, and so Ithaca had to wait four more years for those to expire. The 37 Turkey Slayer is still being made and available in a 12- and 20-gauge model with a 24-inch barrel. There are raised rifle sights just forward of the receiver and at the muzzle for better accuracy, and the Turkey Slayer comes in a black synthetic finish for added durability. It’s not an overly heavy turkey gun in 20-gauge at 7.2 pounds but the 12 is over 8 pounds. A bottom-eject pump, the Turkey Slayer will keep the elements away from your shotshell, which is critical if you’re sitting through a spring rain or freak snow shower. It’s not unheard of for moisture to make its way into the action of side eject shotguns and contaminate a shell’s gunpowder, rendering it useless. Or the water can work its way into the firing pin, causing a light strike of the shotshell’s primer. —J.G.

Best Budget Pump: Mossberg 500 Turkey

Mossberg

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Key Features

• 20-inch barrel
• Tang-mounted safety
• X-Factor choke
• 3-inch chamber

Pros

• Long history of reliability
• Ambidextrous safety
• Short barrel

Cons

• Heavy recoil
• Has a plastic exterior feel

There’s probably no other shotgun manufacturer more dedicated to turkey hunting than Mossberg. Just about every time Mossberg comes out with a new shotgun, it eventually is made available in a turkey platform. Its most iconic pump is the 500, and the turkey model is an ideal gobbler gun. Just 40 inches long—the barrel is 20 inches—the 500 is great for hunting tight cover. The X-Factor choke comes standard, and a tang-mounted safety is perfect if you need to kill a longbeard with your off-hand. The length of pull is only 13.875 inches, and the travel of the fore-end is short in case you need to get a second shot off quickly. There is a front fiber-optic sight for quicker target acquisition, and the 7-pound 12-gauge (get ready for some serious recoil) is finished in Mossy Oak Obsession. The 500 is also available in a .410-bore and 20-gauge. —J.G.

Best 3.5-Inch Pump: Mossberg 835 Ulti-Mag Turkey

Mossberg

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Key Features

• 3.5-inch chamber
• 24-inch barrel
• Tang-mounted safety

Pros

• 3.5-inch capable
• Super durable

Cons

• Heavier than the 500
• More expensive than the 500
• Cheap, flimsy sights

If you like the Mossberg 500 features but you’re a maniac and want to shoot 3.5-inch turkey loads, then the Mossberg 835 Ulti-Mag Turkey is the shotgun for you. It has a longer 24-inch barrel and weighs a half pound more than the 500, which is welcome weight to help soak up all that recoil. 

I’ve hunted across the country with my 835 over the last seven turkey seasons and what I love most about it is that it’s a beater shotgun. It always cycles and always goes bang when I squeeze the trigger. It gets splashed with snow, rain, mud, and turkey blood every season and just keeps running (now that I think about it, I’m not sure that I’ve actually ever cleaned the gun). 

It came with a full (.695) choke that I’ve never seen a need to swap out, which is good because it’s probably rusted in there by now. With top-end TSS loads it shoots killer patterns at 60 yards—and probably farther but I’ve never tried it. The only real downside of the 835 Turkey is that my version came with cheap, flimsy sights. My rear sight fell off at some point during its first season. I solved this by adding a Leupold Freedom red-dot optic. To get the proper comb height in order to see through my new sight, I stole a trick from Dave Petzal and taped a few strips of foam to the stock using green duct tape. It works wonderfully, and really adds to the aesthetic of my beater gun. But wait, you might say. Do you really need 3.5-inch TSS loads to kill a turkey? To that I’d respond, need has nothing to do with it. —Alex Robinson 

Best Patterning Pump: Remington 870 Turkey Camo

Remington Arms

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Key Features

• 21-inch barrel
• X-Full Rem turkey choke
• HiViz front sight
• 3-inch chamber
• 7.25 pounds

Pros

• Steel receiver
• Recoil better than most
• Durable finish

Cons

• Doesn’t shoot 3½-inch

Turkey hunters will appreciate the 21-inch barrel of the 870 Turkey, which makes it easy to reposition for a better shot if a gobbler comes in from an unexpected direction. The shorter barrel cuts some of the weight from traditional 26- and 28-inch barrels, and it balances nicely for those times when you need to make an off-hand or awkward shot. 

Like most turkey guns, this one has everything you need to start turkey hunting without buying additional accessories. The extra full choke patterns well depending on the ammo you use, and hunters who want to dial in their patterns can find an assortment of aftermarket chokes for the 870. Similarly, the HiViz single bead lines up great but doesn’t feel as sturdy as the rest of the gun, but you can easily replace them for cheap. The gun has a matte finish on the steel receiver and barrel, plus Mossy Oak Break-Up on the stock and fore-end. 

If you’re also looking for a budget gun that can take a licking and keep on ticking, look no further. By the end of every turkey season, I’m always amazed at how much dirt and debris I clean off this gun, and I’ve never had a misfire or cycling issue. It’s crawled through mud, cut hay fields with standing water, and even bounced on concrete a time or two.

Unlike other turkey guns (I won’t mention), the 870 doesn’t punish you when you shoot it. The weight absorbs most of the recoil, and it’s never given me a shiner even if I had my cheek to close to the stock.   

I’ve used 870s almost exclusively since I started turkey hunting, and my first one came from my grandfather who found it on a used gun rack. The worn finish around the receiver is from where me and the previous owner(s) gripped and toted it through the woods, and they also swapped the camo stock and forend for glossy Wingmaster furniture. But I never bothered to change it because there’s nothing wrong with having a classy turkey killer. It may not be a true Wingmaster, but this gun’s no pretender when it comes to dropping toms. Besides, it’s a wingmaster in its own right. For years, especially in college, I ran it with a Primos Tight Wad choke and whatever turkey ammo I could find. Sure, I could probably shoot tighter patterns with TSS loads or blends, but this budget gun loves budget ammo. And there hasn’t been a gobbler strut within 40 yards of this gun to change that yet.—Adam Moore

Best .410 Turkey Gun: Mossberg 500 Turkey .410, Optics Ready

Mossberg

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Key Features

• Action: Pump
• Average Pattern: 127.5 (@40 yds inside a 10-inch circle)
• Best Pattern: 156 (Apex)
• Chamber Length: 3 inches
• Barrel Length: 24 inches
• Weight: 6.25 pounds (measured)
• Trigger: 3 pounds, 6 ounces (measured)
• Length of Pull: 13.9 inches
• Choke: X-Full extended
• Sights: Fiber optic, optics ready with Shield RMSc pattern
• Price: $650 (with Holosun Optic)

Pros

• Shot the best patterns of the .410 
• Optics ready
• Affordable

Cons

• Creepy trigger
• Description

The .410 Mossberg 500 Turkey produced the best patterns in our test of .410 turkey guns, putting an incredible 156 Apex No. 9 pellets on target from 40 yards. For reference, that’s a denser pattern than 12 gauge shotguns produced with some loads during our evaluation of the best turkey loads. With its extended extra-full choke, the Mossberg also shot Boss loads nicely as well as a bunch of the other best .410 turkey loads. It liked everything I fed it. 

The coolest feature on the new version of this shotgun is a small cutout in the receiver that allows you to mount a red dot sight with a Shield RMSc footprint directly to the gun (no rail needed). This allows you to keep the sight low on the gun, which promotes a solid cheek weld and creates a sleek profile for the rig. It’s a simple, ingenious design. At the time of publication Cabela’s is offering this gun plus a Holosun red dot sight for $650; that’s a screaming deal. 

The only thing I would ding this gun for is its creepy trigger. Even in the world of turkey guns, where precision is more of a luxury than a requirement, there’s a noticeable amount of slop in this trigger. Despite the trigger, this is hands down the best performing .410 turkey gun I’ve shot. —Alex Robinson

Best Single-Shot .410: Stevens 301 Turkey Obsession .410

Savage Arms

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Key Features

• 26-inch barrel
• 5.07 pounds
• 3-inch chamber
• Removable one-piece rail
• Extra-full choke tube

Pros

• Lightweight
• Easily fitted with optics
• Matte finish

Cons

• Single shot
• Less room for error with a .410
• .410s aren’t legal to turkey hunt with in all states

Advanced turkey loads and chokes have turned the .410 from a small game gun to a deadly accurate turkey slayer. The Stevens 310 Turkey Obsession makes a great, lightweight option—even with its 26-inch barrel—if you tend to put dozens of miles under your boots every turkey season. And your arms shouldn’t shake after holding your gun at the ready for several minutes when you’re waiting for a shot opportunity.

The Stevens 310 comes with a rail that you can easily remove with two screws or equip with an optic. I shot a Truglo red-dot on this gun and it produced deadly patterns at 30 yards with the stock choke. But when I switched to a Carlson’s TSS choke and Apex Ninja 3-inch loads, I was able to get plenty of pellets on paper at 40 yards. Even though it’s a single shot if you have a shell holder on the stock you can quickly reload thanks to the fast ejector that doesn’t stick like the old Stevens model. —A.M.

Best 28-Gauge Turkey Gun: Mossberg SA-28 Tactical Turkey

Mossberg

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Key Features

• Gauge: 28
• Chamber: 2 ¾ inches
• Capacity: 4+1
• Action: Semi-auto, gas
• Weight: 5 pounds 11.8 ounces (measured with no base)
• Length: 41 7/8 inches
• Barrel: 22 inches
• Choke: Extended Turkey
• Trigger: 5 pounds, 9 ounces (measured)
• Sights: Fiber optic front and ghost-ring rear
• Stock: Synthetic pistol grip
• Finish: Mossy Oak Greenleaf
• Price: $902

Pros

• Light Recoiling
• Handy

Cons

• Chambered in 2 ¾ inches

The Tactical Turkey comes with a camo stock—done in the stylishly retro Mossy Oak Greenleaf—with a pistol grip. The pistol grip is made of rubber with finger grooves that gives a very secure grip. Because the shotgun is so light—with the Picatinny rail attached and the reflex sight mounted it weighed 5 pounds 15 ounces—it is easy to control and support the gun for long periods of time. The shotgun is also easy to wield one-handed in case you need your lead hand to run a call or otherwise mess with your gear. I hunted with one in Florida for Osceolas and it performed nicely. (Read my full review of the Mossberg SA-28 Tactical Turkey here).

The gas system is soft shooting and requires little in the way of special maintenance other than occasional cleaning. Officially, Mossberg labels the SA-28 Tactical Turkey as a “Mossberg International” gun. Shotguns in that line are produced in Turkey, while the others Mossbergs made in the U.S. But still, my sample is well made, which is encouraging regarding Mossberg’s arrangement with their Turkish partner.

One important thing to consider if you opt for a 28-gauge turkey gun is that 28-gauge TSS ammo isn’t overflowing on the shelves of your local big box Mart. You’ll need to turn to specialty outfits like the Federal Custom Shop, Apex, Boss and Rogue to find these shells. —John B. Snow

Best Classic Semi-Auto: Remington 1100 Turkey

Remington Arms

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Key Features

• Gas driven
• Thumbhole stock
• 12-gauge

Pros

• Thumbhole stock offers better accuracy
• Rubber grip inlays
• Rem turkey choke

Cons

• No longer in production
• Notoriously loud with heavy recoil

Introduced in the 1960s, the first 12-gauge 1100s could only shoot 2¾-inch shotshells, but there were soon 3-inch magnum variants, and eventually the gas guns were built for turkey hunters. The 1100 turkey gun is actually an 11-87. The platform was updated in 1987 to include a pressure compensation valve that allowed the shotgun to shoot light target loads on up to heavy 2-ounce turkey shells. It has a thumbhole stock, which is used by rifle shooters for better accuracy. The comb of the stock is also slightly raised, making it easier to get a better cheek weld as you look down the sight plane of the barrel. Rubber inlays on the pistol grip and fore-end will give you a better grip on the 11-87 in inclement weather, or when it gets hot and your palms get sweaty. There is also an adjustable rear sight, and a raised front fiber-optic to make precision shots on hung up toms. This shotgun is no longer in production, but can still be found on the used market. —J.G.

Most Underrated Turkey Gun: TriStar Viper G2 Turkey

TriStar

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Key Features

• 3-inch chamber
• Pistol grip
• Picatinny rail
• Gas operated

Pros

• Price
• Gas driven
• Molded pistol grip

Cons

• TriStar shotguns can be hard to find locally 

TriStar doesn’t get enough credit for the functionality and reliability of its gas-operated shotguns. They are modeled after Berettas, and I would argue you get more for less money in the G2 Turkey than you would in the A350. The G2 comes with a molded pistol grip, which helps keep the gun steady but also assists in mitigating recoil because all that force caused from the heavy shot charge is not going solely into your shoulder. A 3-inch gun, the G2 includes a removable Picatinny rail, so you can use an optic, and a fiber-optic sight is mounted at the muzzle. A Beretta-style extended turkey choke comes standard, and there is also a thick recoil pad affixed to the buttstock to help tame recoil. A five-year warranty is included. —J.G.

Best Affordable Semi-Auto Turkey Gun: Winchester SX4 NWTF Cantilever Turkey

Winchester

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Key Features

• Available in 12- (3½-inch) or 20-gauge (3-inch)
• 24-inch barrel
• Invector-Plus extended choke system, includes extra full turkey
• Adjustable rear sight
• Weaver-style cantilever rail design for attaching an optic
• $1,150 MSRP

Pros

• 24-inch barrel is convenient for running and gunning and tight hides
• Semi-auto action runs without a hitch
• A portion of sales goes to NWTF to support wild turkey conservation

Cons

• The fit and finish falls short of what you would expect for the price—ran out of adjustment on the rear sight, which could’ve been solved by mounting an optic

If you want a dedicated turkey gun built around a reliable autoloader, you have to consider the SX4 NWTF Cantilever Turkey. Winchester updated the SX3’s ergonomics by including a rounder pistol grip and a textured grip, which makes this shotgun easy to handle even if you’re sweating or sitting in the rain. The chrome-plated chamber and bore keep the action running smoothly, and when the sun does start shining, the flat-finish camo doesn’t glare at all. Without the plug (you must have one in to legally turkey hunt), the magazine can hold four 2 3/4-inch shells, and the 12-gauge will accommodate up to a 3½-inch load. You can mount a traditional scope or a red-dot on the rail, or simply use the open fiber-optic sights. —Natalie Krebs

Best Bolt-Action Turkey Gun: Savage 212 Turkey

Savage Arms

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Key Features

• Bolt-action built off the 110
• 3-inch chamber
• User-adjustable AccuTrigger
• 22-inch barrel

Pros

• 110 platform is iconic
• Adjustable trigger
• Optics ready

Cons

• Hefty (8.25 pounds without optic)
• Doesn’t run as smoothly as a rifle

This shotgun brings rifle marksmanship to the turkey woods. It’s built off Savage’s iconic 110 rifle platform, includes the excellent AccuTrigger (Savage’s adjustable, two-stage trigger), and features the modular AccuFit stock so you can adjust length-of-pull and comb height, which is especially useful when adding an optic. Speaking of optics, you will have to buy one for this rig as it comes with no sights. The shotgun does include a two-round box magazine. 

I hunted with the 212 Turkey a few years ago for Gould’s turkeys in Mexico, and found that it handled just like a magnum-caliber rifle would. If you intend to mount a scope on this gun, like one of the trendy new LPVOs, mount it as far forward as the eye relief will allow. You don’t want the scope crashing into your eyebrow with 12-gauge, turkey load force. Or just cut down on the recoil altogether and go with the 20-gauge version. The only downside of Savage’s turkey gun is that it did not run as smoothly as I’d hoped. It takes a good amount of force to rack the bolt back and run a shell from the magazine into the chamber. It’s not the smooth, fast experience of running the bolt on a 110 rifle. And this really is the only reminder that this shotgun is, afterall, a shotgun. —A.R.    

How to Choose a Turkey Shotgun

With the right choke and load combination, any turkey gun on this list will shoot excellent patterns at realistic hunting ranges. So if your primary interest is to buy a turkey shotgun for reliability, you can’t beat a pump-action. But that platform is also likely to produce the most recoil (along with break-action options) unless the gun has more weight to it. Gas-driven autoloaders are soft shooters, but are also typically the most expensive. Inertia shotguns are light —and less expensive than gas guns—but they don’t handle recoil as well. And if the gun has a rotating bolt head, it may not send the shotshell into battery if you ease the action forward like so many turkey hunters do to load their shotguns (it keeps noise at a minimum). If you’re buying a dedicated turkey gun for the first time, it’s smart to start with an affordable model, and work your way up. 

Read Next: The Best Turkey Loads

FAQs

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Advertising does not influence our gear reviews and it never will. While we always focus our coverage on standout products—because we want our readers to be aware of the latest and greatest gear—we also cover the flaws and quirks of any given product.

Final Thoughts

Many hunters will put a turkey choke on a shotgun they already own and take it turkey hunting. That certainly works, but dedicated turkey shotguns come in all shapes and sizes with a wide variety of features. When you’re shooting a shotgun like a rifle from the ground amongst the trees, it’s better to have a raised comb and shorter barrel. You don’t need a turkey gun to kill a longbeard, but modern turkey-specific shotguns have earned such popularity because they’re more effective.

• Best Custom Shotgun: Benelli Super Black Eagle 3 Turkey Performance Shop
• Best Gas Semi-Auto Shotgun: Beretta A350 Xtrema Turkey
• Best Bottom-Eject Shotgun: Browning BPS NWTF Turkey
• Best 10-Gauge Shotgun: Browning Gold Light
• Best Youth Shotgun: CVA Scout Compact
• Best Classic Gun: Ithaca Model 37 Turkey Slayer
• Best Budget Pump: Mossberg 500 Turkey
• Best 3.5-Inch Pump: Mossberg 835 Ulti-Mag Turkey
• Best Patterning Pump: Remington 870 Turkey Camo
• Best .410 Turkey Gun: Mossberg 500 Turkey .410, Optics Ready
• Best Single-Shot .410: Stevens 301 Turkey Obsession .410
• Best 28-Gauge Turkey Gun: Mossberg SA-28 Tactical Turkey
• Best Classic Semi-Auto: Remington 1100 Turkey
• Most Underrated: TriStar Viper G2 Turkey
• Best Affordable Semi-Auto: Winchester SX4 NWTF Cantilever Turkey
• Best Bolt-Action: Savage 212 Turkey

Read Next: Best Turkey Vests

The post The Best Turkey Hunting Shotguns of 2023, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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While many state agencies reported a welcome bump in hunting-license sales in recent years, the so-called Covid-19 bump in hunting participation has flattened out. Hunting license sales have returned to pre-pandemic levels, according to a new report from the Council to Advance Hunting and the Shooting Sports. Overall, sales were down 3.1 percent in 2022 compared to 2021.

CAHSS began tracking hunting license sales during Covid lockdowns, when anecdotal reports indicated there were more hunters in the woods. State agency data backed that up: hunting license sales jumped by nearly 5 percent in 2020, a deviation from the decades-long decline. Here’s a glance at the last three years of overall hunting license sales in the U.S.

• From 2019 to 2020, hunting license sales increased 5 percent
• From 2020 to 2021, hunting license sales decreased 1.9 percent
• From 2021 to 2022, hunting license sales decreased 3.1 percent

This year’s survey indicates that the modest gains made during the pandemic era have mostly subsided. Just six of 46 states saw an overall increase in hunting licenses sold in 2022 when compared to 2021. CAHSS did not make public which six states saw increased license sales due to privacy agreements with state agencies; Arkansas, Colorado, Minnesota, and Montana did not provide data for this year’s report.

Still, we do know that hunting license sales were down overall in all four geographical regions: the Northeast, Southeast, Midwest, and West.

Why Are Hunting License Sales Down?

The report from CAHSS only analyzed license data provided by state agencies and did not examine potential causes of the decline or survey hunters. Still, there’s one major difference between 2020 and 2022 that could explain the return to pre-pandemic hunting license sales.

“Probably the biggest factor that we were dealing with through the pandemic was time. A lot of people started working from home,” says Swanny Evans, director of research and partnerships at CAHSS. “And we’ve seen people get back to work, we’ve seen travel pick up. We’re back in the real world, kind of, and I think time has become a constraint once again.”

While the pandemic was indisputably a tough period for many Americans, hunters were often able to embrace lockdowns. The conferences and work travel that normally filled Evans’ own schedule vanished. Suddenly he had more time to turkey hunt.

“But everybody else had a lot of time to turkey hunt, too,” says Evans. “And I could attest to that from not only the sign-ins on public land in Georgia that year but also the harvest on public land, and the anecdotal evidence of seeing people everywhere.”

There are plenty of tactics that R3 professionals (folks whose jobs revolve around recruiting, reactivating, and retaining hunters) can do to encourage hunting participation, but troubleshooting what could be the main culprit of these declining license sales isn’t one of them.

“When you start asking people about why they don’t hunt or they don’t hunt as much as they want to, time is the number one factor,” says Evans. “And it’s something that we can’t control. We can try to improve access and we can try to reduce hunting regulation complexity. We can try to make sure that more opportunity is there, that [would-be hunters] have the knowledge to hunt—whatever it is. But we can’t give people more of their own time.”

Another factor could be a more stable supply chain. Surveys and anecdotal evidence revealed that nearly half of “Covid-bump hunters” were motivated to secure their own meat at a time when it was difficult to find in grocery stores.

“For the overwhelming majority of hunters, one of the primary reasons that they hunt is for the food,” says Evans. “During the pandemic, people kind of saw that as an opportunity. ‘If we’re gonna have supply chain issues, I want to be self sufficient. Maybe I should give this a try, or maybe I should get back into it.’”

Yes, Nonresident Hunting License Sales Are Declining, Too

While nonresident hunting license sales were up nearly 13 percent in 2021 compared to 2020, they’ve mostly declined in 2022 with an overall drop of 3.1 percent. (Coincidentally, overall resident sales also dropped by 3.1 percent.)

Three out of four U.S. regions saw declines in nonresident licenses last year, with the West leading the pack at a 7.2 percent decrease from 2021, followed by a 2 percent decrease in the Southeast and a 1.5 percent decrease in the Midwest. Only the Northeast experienced a modest increase of 1.4 percent.

The surge in 2021 nonresident licenses tracks with national trends at the time, when many states had relaxed Covid-related travel restrictions, but plenty of would-be hunters hadn’t yet returned to their places of work.

CAHSS is working to collect additional data about hunting license sales to better understand hunter participation, including digging into common complaints about overcrowding on public lands and excess hunting pressure. Investigating these trends is tough work considering it requires wrangling 50 state government agencies, all of which sell hunting licenses slightly differently.

“It’s important to keep in mind that unfortunately we don’t have any perfect data sources when it comes to counting hunters,” says Evans. “A license sale doesn’t necessarily equal a participant for a variety of reasons. And then when we start looking at resident versus nonresidents, well, how many people are hunting numerous states each year? So looking at these overall license sales, we’re going to see fluctuations. We try to track them as best we can and we use that as an indicator of participation. But it’s not exactly a hard metric for what’s going on with hunting participation.”

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YOU’RE NOT a true spearfisherman in California until you’ve speared a white sea­bass. And after you’ve done that, you’re still not legit until you’ve killed a fish that tips 70 pounds.

These are the accepted, if unofficial, rules of SoCal’s spearfishing bums, a relatively small but hardcore group of sportsmen and -women who hunt the elusive fish year-round. WSB show up in the strongest numbers from March to June, when they start slipping into the kelp beds along the coast to spawn. Spawning peaks during the new moon, when you hunt the fish by listening for them.

“Bass” is a misnomer, as this species actually belongs to the croaker family. Some WSB calls sound like a frog and a cat trying to mate, but the croaking of a spawning male is akin to a boat misfire—you feel it in your chest. Croaks usually mean you’re closing in, but most of the reverberations my buddies and I heard during this year’s spawn led to nothing. This was the slowest season in the 11 years I’ve been going, and we fought hard for the two bass pictured on these pages.

White seabass hunters are free divers, which means we rely on our lung capacity. This is because scuba equipment is loud. It scares fish and turns you into an alien in the underwater environment. But free diving lets you become a part of the ocean. You’re able to observe, hiding in silence or interacting with animals naturally. And that’s important, because these chrome-colored fish are called gray ghosts for a reason. They may be the largest prey in the kelp, but they’re also the most challenging to find. So there’s a certain frustration—not to mention danger—in free diving for them. But that’s half the fun.

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