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Prime Day 2023 Pocket Knife Deals

CRKT M16 Big Dog with black blade and G10 Handle is 20 percent off with coupon

Cold Steel Espada is 11 percent off

Cold Steel Code 4 is 13 percent off

Save 38 percent on a Spyderco Para Military 2 with G10 black handle and 3.42-inch, CPM S45VN blade. This is one of the best pocket knives.

Prime Day Deals on EDC Knives Under $50

Cold Steel Tuff Lite Folding Knife with Tri-Ad Lock is 16 percent off. An extremely strong locking mechanism and a slicey blade makes this great for breaking down cardboard.

Gerber Gear Flatiron Folding Pocket Knife with cleaver blade is 40 percent off

Gerber Jukebox is 22 to 27 percent off with an additional 15 percent off coupon available

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Old Timer 34OTB Genuine Bone Middleman is 37 percent off

Also check out our Prime Day deals on Streamlights and OLIGHT

CJRB CUTLERY Folding Knife Crag (J1904) D2 Steel Blade Cooper Handle Pocket Knife is 20 percent off

COAST Founder’s Collection SELECT LX502 Folding Pocketknife is 28 percent off

Read Next: Best EDC Knives

Prime Day Multi Tool Deals

Amazon Basics 15-in-1 Stainless Steel Multitool is 31 percent off

Gerber Gear Armbar Drive Multitool with Screwdriver Pocket Knife 2.50 is 28 percent off

The post Prime Day 2023: Pocket Knife Deals appeared first on Outdoor Life.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best Overall Electric		Rapala R12 Heavy Duty Lithium Ion	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary The most powerful knife on this list with a fast blade and excellent flexibility.
Best Saltwater Fixed Blade		Gerber Controller 8-inch	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Durable enough for large saltwater fish, yet flexible enough to clean smaller fish.
Best Freshwater Fixed Blade		Kershaw 7.5-inch Narrow Fillet	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Flexible enough for finesse filleting, but has a stiffer base for tougher cleaning tasks.

Call me old school, but when I go fishing, my main goal is to bring home dinner. If you have the same goal, you’ll need a fillet knife to take fish from the water to the table. You can buy simple fillet knives with wood or plastic handles, to modern, electric fillet knives that make quick work of a limit. In the overwhelming sea of good fillet knives, it can be hard to pull out the keepers from the culls. I made that task a little easier by testing the best fillet knives on fresh and saltwater fish to see which best fit your fish cleaning needs.

• Best Cordless: Rapala R12 Heavy Duty Lithium Ion 
• Best Cordless Kit: Bubba Pro Series Lithium Ion  
• Best Electric Corded: Old Timer 110 Volt Electric with 8-foot Cord
• Best Fixed Blade for Saltwater: Gerber Controller 8-inch 
• Best Fixed Blade for Freshwater: Kershaw 7.5-inch Narrow Fillet 
• Best Folding: Gerber Controller 6-inch Folding Fillet 
• Best Multi-Blade: Bubba Multi Flex Interchangeable 
• Best Lightweight: Opinel No.15 Folder
• Best Traditional Fixed Blade Kit: Outdoor Edge Reelflex-Pack 
• Best Budget: Rapala 6-inch Fish ‘n Fillet

How We Chose The Best Fillet Knives

For this test, I turned both saltwater and freshwater fish piles into ready-for-the-table fillets. I tested blade flexibility, how each handle felt during long cleaning sessions, and the gripping ability of each knife when they were covered in fish slime. I even enlisted the help of a few experienced fish cleaning buddies—including a couple who do it for a living—to get multiple opinions on the best fillet knives and their overall performance.

The Best Fillet Knives: Reviews & Recommendations

Best Cordless: Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Blade length: 6 and 7 ½ inch
• Rechargeable batteries
• Internal LED light

Pros

• Fast blade speed
• Powerful, the most torque of all knives tested
• Spare battery
• Excellent blade shape and flexibility

Cons 

• Only one blade style 

Rapala’s R12 HD is the newest and most powerful in the Rapala line of cordless knives, and the instant response on the trigger makes for quick work on crappie. A small LED light automatically comes on when the trigger is pressed and makes it easy to clean in low light conditions. And a backup set of blades means you will always have a sharp set on hand. 

For this test, I enlisted the help of Justin Creech, a Crappie USA Tournament Trail competitor and frequent tournament champ. Creech spends a ton of time on the water and regularly brings home a haul of crappie for the freezer. After trying several knives, Creech went with the Rapala R12HD as his choice. “I was impressed,” he said. “More torque, faster blade speed, instant response time on the trigger. This is a great knife. I’ve used an older model from Rapala in the past, and this is head and shoulders above that one.”

Read our Rapala R12 vs Bubba Lithium Fillet Knife review to see how the two top electric fillet knives faired head-to-head.

Best Cordless Kit: Bubba Pro Series Cordless Electric Fillet Knife 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Powerful, brushless motor
• Four blade options 
• Two rechargeable batteries and station

Pros

• High torque motor
• Four blade styles to handle any size fish
• Spare battery
• Rapid battery charging

Cons

• Slight delay on trigger

If you find yourself cleaning a wide range of fish, this knife is a great option for you. With four blade choices from thin and flexible to wide and stiff, this knife will handle everything from panfish to the largest saltwater quarry. Dual batteries and fast charging times mean you always have plenty of power on hand. The Bubba Pro comes in a hard carry and storage case that safely stores the knife and keeps all batteries, chargers, and blades in one place.

Best Electric Corded: Old Timer 110V Electric Fillet Knife 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Textured comfort grip
• Long cord
• 8-inch stainless blade
• Lifetime warranty

Pros

• 8-foot cord
• Comfortable grip
• Responsive trigger

Cons 

• Limited to cleaning areas with power outlets

If you normally skin your fish where power is available, the Old Timer 110V Electric Fillet Knife is an excellent choice. It features a nicely curved, flexible 8-inch blade that fits most fish cleaning needs and comes with an 8-foot cord for extra reach at the cleaning station. The knife has a patented lockable trigger and comes with a self-draining carrying case to keep the knife dry between fishing trips.

Best Fixed Blade for Saltwater: Gerber Controller 8

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• 8-inch non-corrosive blade
• HydroTread Grip
• Built in sharpener on sheath

Pros

• Blade can handle small or large fish
• Outstanding grip shape and texture
• Built in sharpener on sheath
• Flexible blade

Cons

• Grip shape is an acquired taste

For this test, I enlisted the help of Captain Doug Chason, a guide based out of Apalachicola, Florida, and Wade Patterson, a professional fish cleaner at Lynn’s Quality Oyster seafood store in Apalachicola. Both were immediately impressed with the Controller 8’s grip shape and texture. “It took a minute to get used to the finger groove in the grip, but once I did, it felt really good,” Patterson said. Captain Chason was also a fan of the easy to hold grip and said that the blade left a smoother cut of meat on some big snapper he cleaned than other competitors. The ergonomic handle on the Controller allows you to keep a firm grip no matter how much fish slime and water build up on the knife. Gerber claims the HydroTread texture on the grip actually sheds water and keeps the handle dry during the cleaning session.

Best Fixed Blade for Freshwater: Kershaw Narrow Fillet 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Stainless 7.5-inch blade
• Flexible but durable blade
• Overmolded K-Texture rubberized grip 

Pros

• Stainless, flexible blade
• Easily to sharpen
• Excellent grip

Cons

• A bit too much flex for really large fish

This Kershaw 7.5-inch Narrow Fillet knife is my choice for a live well full of crappie or a stringer full of trout. The stainless steel blade is hard enough to hold an edge but resharpens easily, and it’s flexible enough to both remove meat from the bone, then slide easily between the fillet and skin. One of the best features on this knife is the over molded K-Texture rubberized grip. While it’s firm enough to hang onto, the soft grip makes it easy to grip the knife in even during the messiest fish cleaning conditions. The knife also comes with a slide on blade protector to keep the edge sharp and prevent unwanted cuts.

Best Folding: Gerber Controller 6-inch Folding Fillet 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• 6-inch folding blade
• HydroTread Grip
• Slim design for easy packability

Pros

• Folding style takes up little space
• Easy to clean
• Slim design

Cons

• Handle can get packed with scales and fish slime during a cleaning session

When space is at a premium, a good folding fillet knife is the way to go. The Gerber Controller 6-inch folder takes up less than 7 inches of space when folded into the handle. Fold it out and lock the 6-inch stainless blade into position, and you have a full size knife capable of most fish cleaning needs. With the same HydroTread grip material as Gerber’s other fillet knives, this one is easy to hold during cleaning, and the mirror polished blade features Gerber’s SaltRx technology to keep it looking great in either salt or freshwater conditions. 

Read Next: How to Fillet a Trout

Best Multi-Blade: Bubba Multi Flex Interchangeable

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Key Features

• Non-slip grip
• Four blade styles and shapes
• Handy carrying case with removable lining for easy cleaning

Pros

• Multiple blade styles
• Outstanding non-slip grip
• Handy, puncture resistant carrying case

Cons

• Blade locks aren’t easy to use with slick hands

If you regularly find yourself fishing for panfish one week and the largest saltwater fish the next, the Bubba Multi Flex kit is a great option for you. It offers blade options that range from narrow and flexible to heavy duty. There’s even a nine inch serrated blade for heavy duty cutting chores. Simply squeeze the easy blade release tabs on either side of the handle to remove and replace the blades. While the easy blade release tabs are convenient, they’re harder to use when your hands are covered in slime or water. This kit also includes a handy carrying case that features a removable tray for easy cleaning and magnetic inserts to hold the blades in place.

Best Lightweight: Opinel No.15 Folder 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Weighs just 2.5 ounces
• 6-inch stainless blade
• Rock-solid locking ring

Pros

• Lightweight, full size knife
• Factory sharp
• Beautiful craftsmanship

Cons

• Locking ring can be tough to twist after cleaning fish

The lightweight Opinel No. 15 folder features a six-inch, fairly stiff stainless steel blade and a lightweight wooden grip. The folding knife locks open or closed with the twist of the built-in locking ring. 

At just 2.5 ounces, this Opinel #15 folder is perfect for trips where you need a lightweight fillet knife. The knife features a slim handle and a six-inch, stainless steel razor sharp blade that locks in the open position with a simple twist of the locking ring at the top of the grip. Besides the light weight and out-of-the-box sharpness, this knife is aesthetically pleasing to look at and has a nice curve in the wooden handle. 

Best Traditional Fixed Blade: Outdoor Edge Reelflex-Pack 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Double-tempered blades for superior flex 
• Rubberized TPR handles 
• Includes 2-stage carbide/ceramic sharpener

Pros

• Three knife sizes for various fish cleaning needs
• Hard carrying case
• Non-slip, comfortable grips
• Outdoor Edge Lifetime Guarantee

Cons

• Hard to get knives in and out of the case at times

The Outdoor Edge Reelflex Pack is another kit that’s perfect for those who fish for multiple species on a regular basis. All three knives have rubberized TPR handles that ensure a solid grip in any conditions, and the kit comes in a folding hard case that contains a 2-stage carbide/ceramic sharpener that makes keeping a keen edge a breeze. The case also features stamped-in rulers in both standard and metric units to make sure your catch is legal. Besides cleaning fish, these knives are alos great for general game cleaning. We took the set on a recent hog hunt and used them almost exclusively to clean and break down multiple pigs.

Best Budget: Rapala Fish ‘n Fillet 

Michael Pendley

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Key Features

• Low cost
• Premium Scandinavian stainless steel 
• Blade length: 6 inches
• Wax-finished birch handle
• Genuine leather sheath and bonus SH1 sharpener

Pros

• Budget friendly
• Wax finished birch grip fills the hand well

Cons

• Wooden handle can get a little slick when covered in fish slime 

I’d be willing to bet the coordinates to my favorite fishing hole that the Rapala Fish ‘n Fillet has cleaned more fish in the past 50 years than just about every other brand of fillet knife combined. It’s inexpensive and available virtually everywhere in the world that fishing gear is sold. Most importantly, the Finlander is a great knife. The wax-finished birch handle is easy to grip, and the hand-sharpened 6-inch stainless blade has plenty of flex for any fish cleaning task. The knife comes with a leather stealth and a SH1 pull through sharpener to keep your knife protected and sharp at all times. 

Things to Consider When Buying a Fillet Knife

Electric or Traditional?

The main benefit of electric knives is that they clean fish quickly and don’t require resharpening as often as traditional fillet knives do. If you’re cleaning a large haul of fish—especially panfish like bluegill, perch, or crappie—an electric knife will save you time and energy. However, a lot of fishermen and women stick with traditional fillet knives because they tend to be lighter, take up minimal space, and are easy to resharpen. 

If you’re only cleaning a few fish at a time a low cost fixed blade might be the choice for you. Traditional blades need to be touched up on a sharpening rod every few fish, but they offer experienced fish cleaners more feel and finesse. That feel is especially useful for fileting fish with delicate flesh. They are also less expensive and weigh less than electric models.  

Single Blade or Kit?

If you typically clean one type of fish on a regular basis, a single bladed knife can be a good choice. But, if you switch back and forth from panfish to large catfish, you might like the option of different blade sizes and stiffness levels. Sure, you can buy several knives in different styles, but a good kit with interchangeable blades makes switching back and forth easy. And you don’t have to get used to multiple grip styles and surfaces when you change blades. 

Grip Styles

The best blade in the world won’t do you any good if the grip doesn’t fit your hand well. If you can, see how a knife feels in your hand before buying it. Grip size and shape makes a difference during long cleaning sessions when your hand starts to tire. Look for one that feels good in your hand and has a shape or texture that will keep it firmly in your grip when things get covered in fish slime.

FAQs

Why Trust Outdoor Life?

Since 1898, OL has been a leading authority in testing and reviewing hunting gear, fishing tackle, guns and shooting equipment, and much more. We have more than a century-long history of evaluating products, and we’re now bringing that expertise to online reviews. Our editors are experienced outdoorsmen and women, and most importantly, we’re trained journalists. We prioritize field testing and objective data when reviewing products. We conduct interviews with gear manufacturers and engineers as well as outdoor experts so that our readers have an understanding of how and why a product works—or doesn’t.

Advertising does not influence our gear reviews and it never will. While we always focus our coverage on standout products—because we want our readers to be aware of the latest and greatest gear—we also cover the flaws and quirks of any given product.

Final Thoughts on the Best Fillet Knives

The best fillet knives have come a long way in the past few years. With better technology and materials in both electric and traditional fillet knives, any of the blades on this list would make a great option depending on your needs. If you can, get your hands on a few of these options before you buy one, and see which one feels best to you. 

• Best Cordless: Rapala R12 Heavy Duty Lithium Ion 
• Best Cordless Kit: Bubba Pro Series Lithium Ion  
• Best Electric Corded: Old Timer 110 Volt Electric with 8-foot Cord
• Best Fixed Blade for Saltwater: Gerber Controller 8-inch 
• Best Fixed Blade for Freshwater: Kershaw 7.5-inch Narrow Fillet 
• Best Folding: Gerber Controller 6-inch Folding Fillet 
• Best Multi-Blade: Bubba Multi Flex Interchangeable 
• Best Lightweight: Opinel No.15 Folder
• Best Traditional Fixed Blade Kit: Outdoor Edge Reelflex-Pack 
• Best Budget: Rapala 6-inch Fish ‘n Fillet

Read Next: How to Sharpen a Knife

The post The Best Fillet Knives of 2023, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Outdoor Life.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Battery-powered, electric fillet knives are one of the top fishing accessories to own, and two of the biggest names to choose from are Bubba and Rapala. I own both and use them regularly at home and on fishing trips. They’re very close in price and feature sets, so deciding between these two leading brands takes some careful consideration.

That being the case, I put the Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife and Rapala R12 head to head to help you make a decision. 

Rapala R12 vs Bubba Lithium: Battery Life

The Bubba and Rapala battery-powered fillet knives can clean dozens of fish without changing a battery.

On paper, the Bubba does seem to offer longer-lasting lithium batteries, rated at 3.2 Ah, versus the Rapala R12’s 2 Ah batteries. But, I needed to see if those specs held up.

To see just how long it would take to kill each battery, I turned on both knives and timed how long it took for them to stop. On a fully-charged 3.2 Ah battery (with no load, not cutting through fish flesh and bone), the Bubba’s battery lasted 2 hours and 16 minutes. The Rapala R12 lasted 1 hour and 52 minutes. So, the Bubba underperformed for its amp hour rating and the Rapala was right on track with its spec. 

I didn’t run out of the juice provided by a single battery with either knife while cleaning the three limits of walleyes (18) and crappies (30). Or while testing them in late May on a visit to Devils Lake, North Dakota, where I kept a two-day possession limit of walleyes (10) and one-day limit of white bass (20). 

It should be noted that both the Bubba and Rapala R12 come with two batteries, so if you do run down one battery, another is on hand—properly charged, of course.

Read Next: How to Fillet a Trout

Ergonomics and Overall Design

The Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife is designed to fit perfectly in your hand and features a non-slip grip handle. It’s even easy to hold when coated in fish slime.

Additionally, one thing I really like about the Bubba Lithium Ion Fillet Knife is its trigger guard to prevent cutting your finger(s) if the knife slips, as well as a safety lock.

Similarly, the Rapala R12 fits really well in the hand but does not feature a trigger guard, which I hope Rapala implements in the next generation. However, the Rapala Knife does have a lock button to prevent accidentally engaging the blades before you’re ready to fillet—a nice safety feature.

Blade Choices

Both the Bubba and the Rapala blades are actually two blades in one that fit together with notches and knobs that create one mechanized, serrated blade surface. Neither are smooth, but feature small teeth that move to cut through skin, bone, and flesh.

In terms of included blade options, the Bubba has the Rapala beat. The Bubba includes four different blade styles: 7-inch; 9-inch E-FLEX; 9-inch E-STIFF; and 12-inch. E-STIFF blades reflect Bubba’s legendary tapered flex fillet knives. Bubba blades are constructed of high-carbon stainless steel and coated with titanium nitride, making them extremely corrosion-resistant, definitely a consideration for saltwater use.

Likewise, if you fish saltwater more than freshwater, the Bubba is probably your best choice given its inclusion of a 12-inch blade for filleting larger fish. The Rapala R12 will accept longer blades, but does not come with them in the retail kit and must be purchased separately. The Rapala R12 comes with just two blades: a 6-inch (perfect for cleaning panfish and smaller species) and a 7.5-inch blade, both PTFE coated (essentially Teflon).

One thing I liked better about the Bubba than the R12 is the Bubba 7-inch and 9-inch E-FLEX blades have a little more flex to them. But that’s a matter of personal preference: Some anglers like more flex, while others like stiff blades.

At least for me, what I like about a blade with more flexibility is it makes cutting the rib cages out of fillets easier as you have to slightly turn up the blade to remove only skin and bone. This part of the filleting process was easier with both Bubba’s 7- and 9-inch E-FLEX blades, especially when cleaning the walleyes we caught in Minnesota and North Dakota.

The solution? Have one angler cut the fillets off the fish with a Bubba or Rapala cordless fillet knife, and another angler remove the rib cages with another electric knife or standard, fixed blade, then remove the skin, and finally, “zipper” the fillets. 

I didn’t think the Bubba’s 7-inch blade made a very good crappie, sunfish, perch, or white bass blade, as opposed to the 6-inch that comes in the Rapala R12 kit, which does a great job. The teeth on the Bubba are bigger with larger spaces between them which didn’t translate as well to cutting through panfish meat. 

There is a solution to making the Bubba a better panfish knife: Buy a set of 7-inch Mr. Twister blades (which were designed for cleaning panfish), which fit into the slots of the Bubba handle perfectly.

Still, in my opinion, the 7-inch Mr. Twister blades don’t work quite as well as the 6-inch Rapala R12 blade—and I can say that after cleaning lots of crappies and white bass last month.

Operational Torque

High school physics tells us that torque is basically the rate of change of angular momentum imparted on an isolated body. In an electric fillet knife that translates to how fast and powerful the motor pushes the blades through skin, flesh, and bone when angled into a dead fish.

The clear winner in terms of torque is the Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife Combo. It definitely has more torque and cut through skin, bone, and flesh easier than the Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife.

Bones were little—if no—obstacle, and the entire filleting process was easier and quicker. Three of us tested both the Rapala R12 and Bubba on both walleyes up to 22 inches. My friend Alan, an avid outdoorsman in his late 70s who cleans lots of fish thought the Rapala had more torque and power than the Bubba. That power made it easier to cut through the bigger bones of the pike and through the rib cages of the 20-22 inch walleyes that were part of our limits. I found exactly the same to be true. Personally, if I was taking a saltwater fishing trip I would invest in a set of longer, 9-inch Rapala blades.

Additional Features and Warranty

For convenience, both the Bubba and the Rapala feature on-board LED power gauges to monitor battery status.

As for stand-out features, the Rapala R12 has a built-in LED light for filleting in low-light conditions—definitely a smart, common-sense design. Even when filleting fish in areas with overhead lighting, I found using the onboard LED light helpful.

In terms of warranty, the Rapala R12 is covered by a two-year warranty. The Bubba Lithium Ion comes with a limited lifetime warranty that states, “Bubba Blade will repair or replace with a new item (at their option) any Bubba Blade product that is defective.”

Electric vs. Non-Electric Fillet Knife

For years I cleaned fish with original wood-handled Rapala Fillet Knives passed down from my father and uncles. For over three decades I cleaned 90 percent of my fish using the “Canadian Method” of filleting fish where you follow the backbone down in one fell swoop, thus eliminating having to cut out ribs as a separate step. Then you simply place the knife under the skin at the tail and pull the skin back while the knife slides under the meat and you pull the skin off. The only thing that’s left is “zippering” the fillets and packaging appropriately for transport.

Along the way, I tried lots of different electric flilet knives, but none really impressed me. So, I was stuck in my ways with non-electric, fixed-blade knives until Northern Minnesota guide, Brian “Bro” Brosdahl, showed me how quickly and precisely he could fillet four limits of walleyes with a Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife.

Of course, there were a couple extra steps: First, you cut off each fillet (with rib cages intact) and then follow up with another step of removing the rib cages and then the skin—as well as “zippering” the fillets to remove the walleyes’ tiny y-bones.

The nice thing about Bro’s system is if you’re fishing with lots of anglers keeping fish, you can really burn through a lot of fish fast with an electric knife—and then have another angler (or anglers)—removing rib cages, skin, and zippering the fillets for rinsing and state/province regulation-appropriate packaging for transport.

So, I ordered a Bubba like Bro’s as soon as I got home, and used it until the end of this past winter when I picked up a Rapala R12, which I had heard from trusted anglers was even better than the Bubba.

Bubba vs Rapala R12: The Bottom Line

Here’s the final word on the Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife and Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife Combo. They’re both great cordless fillet knives, but they have their strengths and weaknesses.

Best All Water: Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife

Bubba Blade

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Key Features

• Price: $190
• 8.5-inch handle with non-slip contoured grip
• Ergonomic trigger with safety guard
• LED battery life indicator
• Includes four blades
• Limited lifetime warranty

I recommend the Bubba Lithium Ion Cordless Electric Fillet Knife if you want a knife that will satisfy filleting both freshwater and saltwater species. The Bubba is slightly lower in cost (MSRP: $189.99) and you get four blades versus the two included in the Rapala R12 kit. Personally, I liked the flex in the Bubba blades over the Rapala, but found that they’re not ideal for filleting smaller fish like crappies, perch, and bluegills given the larger teeth and spaces between the teeth.

Although it’s slower and has less torque than the Rapala R12, the Bubba’s longer blade kit makes it great for saltwater and larger freshwater fish.

I’ve owned my Bubba since the winter of 2020 and it still operates as well as the day I bought it. Plus, I know if something goes wrong, Bubba’s warranty will ensure a replacement free-of-charge.

Let me add this: The Bubba also made a great turkey carving knife with its 12-inch blade last Thanksgiving. Similarly, I used the Rapala R12 to carve a 15-pound ham on Easter and it also did a spectacular job. 

Best for Freshwater: Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife Combo

Rapala

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Key Features

• Price: $195
• LED light for filleting in low light conditions
• Two PTFE coated blades, 6 and 7.5 inches
• Rapid charging base; battery charge time of 1 hour
• Includes two batteries
• Two year warranty
• On-board LED power gauge to monitor battery status

If you want the best all-around cordless freshwater fillet knife—with blades for panfish to walleyes and pike—then the Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife Combo is my pick. Additionally, if you want to invest in the most powerful and quickest cordless knife on the market, my experience is the Rapala R12 is your best bet. It’s a few dollars more than the Bubba Lithium Ion—and you might need to invest in additional blades for larger fish—but it has the most torque and cuts through freshwater fish like butter.

The other really cool thing about investing in a Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife Combo is you’re buying into a system of Rapala products that all utilize the same R12 battery, kind of like the fishing equivalent of Milwaukee Tools and their host of problem-solving products.

For example, the same Rapala R12 Lithium battery used in the fillet knife also works in a handy aerator with 35 hours or runtime. I’ve been using one for about six months to keep minnows lively on fishing trips. Yes, you can say goodbye to costly D batteries once and for all.

A Rapala R12 battery also powers a handy spot-light lantern for night fishing, camping, etc. My guess is you’ll see even more R12 products emerge over the upcoming year, too. That said, I’m even more happy with my decision to give the Rapala R12 Heavy-Duty Lithium Fillet Knife Combo a shot.

The post Rapala R12 vs Bubba Lithium: Fillet Knife Shootout appeared first on Outdoor Life.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best Folding Skinning Knife		CRKT Cinco	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary One-hand opening, good grip when wet, and a strong blade
Best Replaceable Blade Skinning Knife		Outdoor Edge RazorBone	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Also comes with gutting and boning/fillet blades that are easy to change out
Best Backcountry Skinning Knife		Argali Serac	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Weighs 2 ounces and the skeletonized handle allows a solid grip

You might assume by its name that the skinning knife has a single job. You’d be wrong. The best skinning knife has a versatile blade design to enable you to field-dress game, remove and then flesh the hide, whittle a tent peg, and then carve a toy boat in the spare time they’ll give you. There are both fixed-blade skinning knives and folding skinning knives. The best are sharp out of the box and designed to take and keep an edge when they dull. They’re our ultimate survival gear, and they’ll take care of you if you first take care of them.

There is no shortage of quality knives on the market, with more every year as brands deepen and broaden their product lines. Even the number of companies continues to grow, with upstarts joining venerable knife makers such as Benchmade, CRKT, Ka-Bar, Buck, Gerber, and SOG. 

• Best Folding Skinning Knife: CRKT Cinco
• Best Replaceable Blade Skinning Knife: Outdoor Edge RazorBone
• Best Backcountry Skinning Knife: Argali Serac
• Best Multipurpose Skinning Knife: Cold Steel Large Voyager Plain Edge
• Best Budget Skinning Knife: SOG Survival Knife

How We Tested Skinning Knives

In order to help you find the best skinning knife for your style and purpose, we picked five different types: folding knives, fixed-blade knives, straight-ahead survival and camping knives, skinning knives with removable blades, and one high-end skinning knife that every hunter can aspire to. Some are from familiar brands, others from companies that have quietly made reliable hunting knives for decades.

I put all the blades to the test during a fly-in, do-it-yourself caribou hunt in Alaska, northeast of Kotzebue. Each knife helped field dress, quarter, and then bone out two entire bull caribou, while also helping with other camp chores. While I spent more time taking care not to cut myself or be ambushed by the abundant grizzly bears around my caribou hunting area, I also assessed the versatility, sharpness, ergonomics, blade design, and portability of each of these knives as they helped me make meat in the wilds of Alaska.

Back at camp, I then put each of these knives to the specific task that defines the group: skinning quarters of caribou. For this task, I assessed their ability to make the precise slices between hide and meat, their ability to make fine and coarse cuts, and their ability to retain their edge and clean up after their job was finished. I even used them to cut up fresh caribou tenderloin at the end of my successful hunt.

The best skinning knives feature what are called “drop-point” blades. These have some variation on a tip that descends from the spine, or the unsharpened back of the blade. The point is usually thicker at the tip, which allows for more controlled slicing. Drop-point knives tend to perform better on animal skins, because the point doesn’t easily  stab or poke holes in the hide. The main alternative to a drop-point is a clip-point blade. That design has a sharper, thinner point that’s better for stabbing but not nearly as good for skinning or even gutting an animal.

Read Next: Best Knives for Field Dressing

Best Skinning Knives: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Folding Skinning Knife: CRKT Cinco

Columbia River Knife & Tool

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The Cinco isn’t billed strictly as a skinning knife, but that’s one of the many tasks that it handles with aplomb. It’s one of the easiest knives to deploy with a single hand, thanks to a flipper that accelerates opening, and the G10 synthetic handle scales retain plenty of grip even when wet. The modest drop-point blade works well for field dressing and skinning, but is also suited for the tougher jobs like separating joints and cutting tendons.

Best Replaceable Blade Knife: Outdoor Edge RazorBone

Outdoor Edge

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This is the venerable Havalon style of replaceable-blade knife, but on steroids. Outdoor Edge has perfected the blade-replacement process, using a simple plunge button to make changing blades fast and safe. The blaze-orange fiberglass handle is textured, making it easy to grip, and the blades are large and strong enough to make both aggressive and fine cuts.

Best Backcountry Knife: Argali Serac

Argali

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This best backcountry skinning knife is weighing just two ounces, with a skeletonized handle that not only trims weight but actually makes the knife more nimble, the Serac was my go-to caribou-butchering blade. The super-premium S35VN steel retains its edge for many animals, and the blaze-orange sheath makes it (almost) impossible to lose. At over $200, it’s an investment-grade blade, but its performance justifies the cost.

Best Multipurpose Skinning Knife: Cold Steel Large Voyager Plain Edge

Cold Steel

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The Cold Steel Large Voyager is one of those knives that does everything pretty well, which is why it’s our pick for best multipurpose skinning knife. The textured nylon handle has plenty of grip, and finger detents ensure that it won’t come out of your grasp no matter how slippery the job. The blade is thick enough to perform the stoutest tasks, and the fine drop-point allows for plenty of finesse. The model is available with various blade styles, but for all-around utility, the plain drop-point is a great choice.

Best Budget Skinning Knife: SOG Survival Knife

SOG

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As the best budget skinning knife, this isn’t a classic skinning knife. But the 4-inch clip-point blade is such a great all-around blade housed in a bombproof plastic sheath that it deserves mention. Plus, it did a great job skinning my caribou. Double-plus, at less than $35, it’s cheap enough that you can have one in every vehicle and hunting pack. For that price, accept that it doesn’t have great steel, but that’s its only shortcoming.

Three Things To Consider When Shopping for the Best Skinning Knives

Before I dive into the attributes of each knife we tested, consider three things based on the tasks you’ll ask your knife to perform.

1. Style. The first consideration is style, whether a folder or a fixed-blade knife. If you will be doing occasional skinning and slicing, then a compact folder is probably right for you. The benefits are portability and versatility. But if you’ll be skinning or butchering a number of animals, then maybe a fixed-blade sheath knife is better, because it’s easier to clean, is generally easier to sharpen, and the blade itself tends to be longer and better suited to producing a quantity of cuts.

2. Steel Composition. The second consideration is steel composition, which influences how sharp the knife stays and then how easy it is to sharpen. High-carbon steel is generally quite sharp right out of the box, and tends to stay sharp longer than softer steel. However, the hard steel of high-carbon blades can be tougher to sharpen. Happily, if you’re someone who doesn’t like to sharpen your blades, then consider replaceable blade knives, like the Havalon or Outdoor Edge.

3. Handle Material. If you are using a skinning knife for its namesake task, then it’s bound to get bloody or coated with the viscous membranes between an animal’s skin and flesh. The last thing you want is to have your slippery knife slide out of your hand. So consider handles with some texture. Some synthetic materials with plenty of texturing are a good choice, but bone and wood handles also have natural gripping abilities. Whatever you get, make sure the handle fits your hand well. A handle that’s either too small or too large for your hand will make skinning and cutting chores more tiring than they need to be.

FAQs

A Final Word on Skinning Knives

The best skinning knives will not only deftly remove the hide from a big-game or small-game animal, but they’ll handle most camp chores, from gutting your kill and butchering meat to cutting steak at the end of the day. Whether it’s a folding knife or the best sheath knife, these models have strong, sharp blades that are easily resharpened, and are made of durable, comfortable, and grippy materials. The best skinning knives are easy to clean, don’t stain or rust, and transition to becoming your favorite survival and camping knives when the hunting is done.

The post The Best Skinning Knives of 2023 appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Large		Bubba Tapered Flex	SEE IT
Best Traditional		Misono Hankotsu	SEE IT
Best Value		Outdoor Edge Razorlite	SEE IT

While I love the flavor provided by bone-in cuts, oftentimes laws, freezer space, or weight savings necessitate deboned meat. A good boning knife allows you to make precise and powerful cuts that separate meat from the bone. Bad boning knives make butchering a chore with their quickly-dulling edges, inefficient blade design, and cramp-inducing grips. 

I’ve used my years of restaurant and home butchery experience to help you choose the best boning knives for use in the field or while butchering at home. 

• Best Large Knife: Bubba 7-inch Tapered Flex
• Best Traditional: Misono Hankotsu
• Best for the Backcountry: Benchmade Flyway
• Best Value: Outdoor Edge Razorlite and RazorBone
• Best Ultralight: Tyto 1.1
• Best Folder: Buck 110 Slim
• Best High End: Benchmade Meatcrafter Carbon Fiber

How I Chose the Best Boning Knives

You don’t need a fancy knife to debone a deer, elk, or any farmed meat. A $12 Dexter-Russel boning knife will get the job done, and many pros use them. The knives I’ve selected are either lighter and more packable for field use or have ergonomics that I prefer over the ubiquitous Dexter-Russel.

Best Boning Knives: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Large Knife: Bubba 7-inch Tapered Flex

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features

• Stainless Steel
• Blade Length: 7 inches
• Overall Length: 13 inches
• Rubber handle
• Includes sheath
• Price: $75

Pros

• Good ergonomics
• Flexible blade

Cons

• Needs to be touched up throughout butchering 

Bubba filet knives are great for fish, but they’re also one of my favorite blades for deboning game. The thin, sharp knife slices thick cuts easily. The winning feature is the blade’s flex, which is helpful when working right up against the bone. I use mine to remove an entire backstrap in two continuous cuts, using the bone as a guide. I want to clarify that while some flex is helpful, too much flex can make it hard to control your cuts. That’s why I wouldn’t recommend the Bubba Ultra Flex series. 

The 7-inch blade length is a nice size for steaking roasts. The grip is comfortable and secure, even when coated in blood. The edge retention is not spectacular, but I touch my Bubba up with a ceramic honing rod throughout the butchering process, especially if I touch the edge to a bone. The blade isn’t fully stainless, so be sure to wipe it down after use to avoid spot rust. If you’re looking for the best boning knife to use for fish and game, this is a great option.

Read Next: Best Knife Sharpeners  

Best Traditional: Misono Hankotsu

Misono

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Key Features

• Molybdenum Stainless Steel
• Blade Length: 5.7 inches
• Overall Length: 10.2 inches
• Wood handle 
• Made in Japan
• Price: $76

Pros

• Designed for efficient butchering
• Easy to resharpen
• Molybdenum steel resists corrosion and pitting

Cons

• A purpose-built knife that’s utility is limited to butchery 

My parents had a Japanese steakhouse, and ever since I could hold a tray, I worked every job in the restaurant. When we would get large cuts of beef we’d break them down using Hankotsu boning knives, and that classic design is also useful for wild game. 

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You can use a number of grip styles with a Honkatsu, but when making power cuts, you’re supposed to use a reverse grip. That grip allows you to use your whole body to make cuts and is less tiring than using just your arm muscles. The blade also has a concave side to reduce surface friction on the blade.

Best for the Backcountry: Benchmade Flyway

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features

• Steel: CPM-154 at 58-61 HRC
• Blade Length: 2.7 inches
• Blade Thickness: 3/32 inches
• Weight: 2.1 ounces
• Overall Length: 7 inches
• G10 Handles 
• 14-degree bevel
• Kydex sheath
• Made in USA
• Price: $180

Pros

• Good ergonomics
• Good edge retention 
• Light

Cons

• Small blade requires multiple cutting strokes for deboning thick pieces of meat

I used the Flyway last year to field dress, butcher, and debone an entire deer without touching up the blade. Two days later, I used it to butcher pheasants, and afterward it was still sharp enough to push cut paper. Since then, it’s been my favorite hunting knife, and it’s even a handy EDC fixed blade. The things that make it so great for boning are its ergonomic, sculpted G10 grip and slicey blade. 

The blade has a drop point and plenty of belly for making deep cuts. While field dressing, the fine point, and slight drop were perfect for making the initial cut where the knife edge is facing up as you slide the knife under the skin. The length makes it easy to control, and when you reach into the chest cavity, it’s easy to know where your knife is.

According to Knife Steel Nerds, the CPM 154 used in the Fly Way is known for good edge retention, and it’s tougher than S30V. The toughness makes it a great steel choice for a thin knife. 

My only complaint is that the sheath is considerably bulky for such a small knife. That makes the Flyway less convenient to carry in a bino harness or pants pocket. Even with that con, it’s my pick for the best boning knife to carry in the field.

Read Next: Best Hunting Knives

Best Value: Outdoor Edge Razorlite and RazorBone

Outdoor Edge

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Key Features

• Blade Length: 3.5 inches (Razorlite) and 5 inches (RazorBone)
• Blade Steel: Japanese 420J2 Stainless
• Nylon pouch
• Weight: 6.4 ounces (Razorlite)
• Overall Length: 8 inches (open)
• Price: $40 (Razorlite)and $50 (RazorBone)

Pros

• Easy to replace blades
• Good blade shape

Cons

• Heavier than some replaceable blade knives

Last year I found myself on the side of a mountain with five others trying to break down two elk as quickly as possible, before the two grizzly bears over the ridge got too interested in us. Everyone had different replaceable blade knives, but about halfway through the first elk, it was obvious which of the knives was the best—the Razorlite. Its blades were the easiest to replace, and the mounting system was trouble-free. Other knives got gummed up, and the blades came off, but the RazorLite zipped through deboning two elk.

That’s an important consideration because while a number of replaceable blade knives will excel at field dressing, butchering is usually soon to follow. It’s nice to have a knife that does both well. 

While the RazorLite isn’t the lightest replaceable blade knife—5.9 ounces heavier than a Tyto. It’s the most trouble-free design I’ve used. I don’t have blades pop off or break, and I can make it through an animal on one blade. When it’s time to swap a blade, you just press the button, slide the blade out, and slide a new blade in. The rubberized grip stays grippy when your hands are covered in blood. The 3.5-inch blade is a good length for balancing maneuverability and cutting efficiency. 

The RazorBone uses the same blade system as the RazorLite with a longer blade that’s perfect as a dedicated butchering blade. It would be my choice for the best boning knife with a replaceable blade for home use.

Best Ultralight: Tyto 1.1

Tyto Knives

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Key Features 

• Weight: 1.5 ounces (handle, one blade, and sheath)
• Overall Length: 7.5 inches
• Width: 1 inch
• Thickness: .120 inch
• Uses size 60 replacement blades
• Made in the USA
• Price: $104 

Pros

• Light
• Easy to carry
• Good ergonomics 

Cons

• Blades can pop off with side pressure

A Tyto and spare blades ride in my bino harness and only come out when it’s time to put them to work. When the knife isn’t in use, I don’t even notice it, and that’s where the Tyto shines. It’s a minimalist knife that’s exceptionally light and slim. 

The blades pop into place easily, and one blade will stay sharp throughout the field dressing. But you’ll eventually need to replace your blade if you’re deboning and skinning. That’s best done with a pair of pliers, the Havalon Blade Remover, or by sticking the blade into a piece of wood. 

The sharp jimping on the spine provides a non-slip grip and an index point. While I’ve never felt the need to wrap mine in paracord or add scales, you have that option for even more grip traction. 

Best Folder: Buck 110 Slim

Buck Knives

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Key Features

• Blade Length: 3.75 inches
• Overall Length: 8.6 inches (4.8 inches folded)
• Stainless 420 steel with BOS heat treat
• Lockback
• Glass Filled Nylon (GFN) handle material
• Weight: 2.8 ounces
• Price: $43

Pros

• Lightweight
• Under $50
• Made in the USA

Cons

• Not ideal for hard-use tasks 

I own the original Buck 110, a fixed blade 110, and the newer 110 Slim. They’re all iconic hunting knives that have proven themselves through hard use by countless outdoorsmen. The best knife for field dressing among the 110 line is the 110 slim, because it’s light, is easier to open thanks to the addition of thumb studs, and blood effortlessly washes off the GFN handle. Fans of the original will be happy to learn that it maintains the classic, and rock solid, lockback design and endlessly useful clip point blade. It’s also one of the few knives under $50 that are made in the USA. 

Buck Knives opened up shop in 1902, just four years after Outdoor Life, and have had a loyal following ever since. If you’re looking for a classic that won’t hurt the wallet or weigh you down, you can’t go wrong with the 110 Slim. 

Best High-End: Benchmade Meatcrafter Carbon Fiber

Benchmade

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Key Features

• CPM-S45VN Stainless Steel
• Blade Length: 6 inches
• Overall Length: 11 inches
• Carbon fiber handle
• Includes sheath
• Price: $450

Pros

• Cerakote blade
• Blade is slightly flexible
• Striking aesthetics
• Good ergonomics

Cons

• Very expensive 

Benchmade took the classic 6-inch boning knife and added a bunch of high-end features to create a tricked-out model that’s about 12 times more expensive than the standard. This knife will do all the same tasks as a plain-Jane boning knife, but it will do them with flash and style. If that kind of thing matters to you, then this knife just might be worth it. 

The carbon fiber handle is light and comfortable in-hand. The orange cerakoted blade is flexible enough to work around joints but not so bendy that you give up cutting power. Even the Kydex sheath looks cool, with black on one side and blaze orange on the other. I’ve used one for several seasons now to butcher half-a-dozen deer and at least a dozen turkeys. It’s my go-to knife anytime I’m working on quarters. The knife is light enough (6.2 ounces including the sheath, which is less than the Razorlite) that you could pack it into the backcountry if you wanted a true boning knife up on the mountain. But in my opinion, this bad boy belongs in the kitchen or the garage at butchering time. —Alex Robinson

How to Choose a Boning Knife

There are a few key attributes I look for in a boning knife including blade length, steel, ergonomics, and blade flex. 

Blade Length

Unlike the best knives for field dressing, a longer blade can be beneficial for deboning. More surface area means you can make deep cuts right to the bone in one swipe. However, if you’re packing the knife into the backcountry, a long blade isn’t practical. 

Steel

When butchering at home, a softer carbon steel that dulls quickly but is easy to resharpen isn’t a disadvantage. In fact, I prefer them over super steels that hold an edge longer, but are difficult to sharpen. In the field where you don’t have a sharpener handy, a replaceable blade knife or one that holds an edge is preferable. 

Ergonomics

Butchering isn’t a fast task, and a knife with good ergonomics is a huge benefit. You’ll have fewer hand cramps and the whole process will be more enjoyable. Look for a knife that doesn’t force your hand into a particular position so that you can choose the best grip for the task. I also like grips that prevent slipping with their design, material, or texture. 

Flexible Blade

Bones aren’t perfectly flat, and it’s helpful to have a knife that can conform to the bone’s shape while cutting away the meat. Just keep in mind that a knife that’s too flexible can struggle to make precise, straight cuts. 

Read Next: How to Cook Venison: The Best Ways to Prepare Every Cut

FAQs

Why Trust Outdoor Life?

Since 1898, OL has been a leading authority in testing and reviewing hunting gear, fishing tackle, guns and shooting equipment, and much more. We have more than a century-long history of evaluating products, and we’re now bringing that expertise to online reviews. Our editors are experienced outdoorsmen and women, and most importantly, we’re trained journalists. We prioritize field testing and objective data when reviewing products. We conduct interviews with gear manufacturers and engineers as well as outdoor experts so that our readers have an understanding of how and why a product works—or doesn’t.

Advertising does not influence our gear reviews and it never will. While we always focus our coverage on standout products—because we want our readers to be aware of the latest and greatest gear—we also cover the flaws and quirks of any given product.

Final Thoughts on the Best Boning Knives

The best boning knives allow you to efficiently carve meat off the bone. You can use an inexpensive knife to get the job done, but if you’re interested in investing in a lighter or higher-quality option, check out one of my recommendations. 

• Best Large Knife: Bubba 7-inch Tapered Flex
• Best Traditional: Misono Hankotsu
• Best for the Backcountry: Benchmade Flyway
• Best Value: Outdoor Edge Razorlite
• Best Ultralight: Tyto 1.1
• Best Folder: Buck 110 Slim

The post Best Boning Knives of 2023 appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Electric		Work Sharp Ken Onion	Check Latest Price
Best Overall		Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener – Elite	Check Latest Price
Best Honing Rod		Noble Home & Chef	Check Latest Price

I was told growing up that a dull knife was more dangerous than a sharp one. When I was a kid, it was a head-scratcher for me, but when I really started using knives on my backpacking and camping trips and to dress and butcher game, it all came into focus. A dull knife takes a lot more effort to cut and usually ends up with you ‘’sawing’’ with the knife. Consequently, you can slip off and stick yourself. The lesson is that a dull knife is a worthless knife. This is why you need a knife sharpener. 

So, the cure for what ails you is a sharp knife. But no matter how good the heat treat on the blade, or how sharp the factory edge, every knife will need to be sharpened. So where to begin? Sharpeners are available anywhere from five bucks to over $500. I have been sharpening knives since I was about 14 years old, and sharpening them professionally since 2015. In that time, I have used just about everything out there and I want to help you navigate the crowded knife sharpener market. Here are my picks for the best knife sharpeners, as well as picks from Greg Campbell, a custom knife maker, and Scott Einsmann, gear editor.

• Best Overall: Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener – Elite
• Best Electric: Work Sharp Ken Onion
• Best for Pocket Knives: Wicked Edge Pro Pack 1
• Best Sharpening Stone: Smith’s Arkansas Stone
• Best for Kitchen Knives: Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker  
• Best Whetstone: Keenbest Sharpening Stone 
• Best Strop: Bacher
• Best Honing Rod: Noble Home & Chef
• Best for Your Pack: Work Sharp Pivot

Testing the Best Knife Sharpeners

We sharpened knives with varying blade angles and heat treats while evaluating the knife sharpeners on the following criteria:

• Speed
• Ease of use
• Consistency
• Edge produced

The Best Knife Sharpeners: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Overall: Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener – Elite

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features 

• 15 to 30 degree angle guides
• Includes: 220, 320, 400, 600, & 800 grit diamond plates, ceramic plate, leather strop, and ceramic rod for serrations
• Adjustable in 1 degree increments
• Price: $139.95
• Great for sharpening pocket knives, kitchen knives, hunting knives, and broadheads

Pros

• Precise sharpening
• Easy to use
• Versatile 

Cons

• Learning curve

Whether you need to sharpen a 2-inch pocket knife or an heirloom fixed blade, this is the best knife sharpener for the job. It can power through super steels and polish to mirror finish. I like that it’s easy to maintain a consistent edge angle and that the kit only has a few pieces. It’s also relatively inexpensive compared to similar sharpeners. 

I rarely use the aggressive stones that are included in the kit, unless I’m repairing a chip. I start with the 600 grit, progress to 800 grit, and finish with the leather strop. You can go from a knife that won’t push cut paper to one that will split a hair in 10 minutes. Part of what makes sharpening go so quickly is how easy it is to rotate the stones to change grits. It’s also very easy to swap sides of the knife.

There is a learning curve to using this knife sharpener, but here are a few tips to help shorten the curve. Find the right angle by coloring the edge with a sharpie and making light passes with the stone until you find the angle where the stone removes the sharpie from the edge. Another option is to choose an angle you like and use the coarse stones to adjust your knives to that angle. Once you have an angle, the key is to use light, consistent pressure and long strokes. Remember to move the strop in one direction so that it doesn’t cut the leather. -S.E.

Best Electric: Work Sharp Ken Onion

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features

• Includes coarse, medium, fine, and extra fine belts
• Adjustable between 15 and 30 degrees
• Variable speed

Pros

• Can repair damaged knives
• Fast sharpening of any knife

Cons

•  Not all users will want a convex edge 
• Loud

This is a spin off of Work Sharp’s Original electric belt knife sharpener, but with some big upgrades that make it the most versatile sharpener on the market. With the blade grinder attachment, you can even dabble in knife making. Adjust from 10 degrees per side all the way to 35 on the semi-guided attachment. I still use my Wicked Edge, but this is my main tool now. Easy mirror polished, beyond razor-sharp edges on every type of knife, and it will also do scissors, machetes, axes, and even my straight razor. Like the other Work Sharp knife sharpener, this will give you a convex edge, and it will get it done fast. Repair broken tips, deep chips, and rolls in just a few minutes. 

Best for Pocket Knives: Wicked Edge Pro Pack 1

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Key Features 

• 15 to 30 degree angle guides
• Includes: 220, 320, 400, 600, & 800 grit diamond plates, ceramic plate, leather strop, and ceramic rod for serrations
• Adjustable in 1 degree increments
• Price: $600

Pros

• Precise sharpening
• Easy to use
• Versatile 

Cons

• Learning curve

No, it’s not cheap, but you can’t argue with the results. I bought a Pro Pack 1 for my sharpening business, and it was worth every penny. Perfectly mirror polished, hair whittling edges every time. I have sharpened nearly 2000 high-end EDC knives with mine, and it’s still going strong. Pick any angle from 15-25 degrees per side, clamp it in, follow the directions, and you’re going to get a level of sharpness that you’ve probably never experienced. The Wicked Edge gives the perfect v-edge, every time. If you plan to sharpen a lot of knives, or you want the mirror edge with the least effort, this is the way to go. 

Best Sharpening Stone: Smith’s Arkansas Stone

Smith’s

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Key Features 

• Length: 4.75 inches
• Width: 1.25 inches
• Comes with carrying case
• Price: $14.50

Pros

• Precise sharpening
• Easy to use
• Versatile 

Cons

• Learning curve

I cut my teeth on a Smith’s Medium Arkansas Stone. And for the price, you can’t beat them. There are some “pull-through” sharpeners out there for a little less than the cost of a knife-sharpening stone, but they really don’t do a good job, and they chew up your blade. The small 4 inch stone can be had for around $10, but the 6-inch stone is preferable for a little more money. This blade sharpener method will take some practice, and you might not get the results you want right off the bat, but when you master it, there is a deep satisfaction that comes from it. Learning to keep your angle consistent will be the biggest hurdle, but there are many good tutorials online, and Smith’s does make small guides to help you out in the beginning. Depending on your technique, you can either get a v-edge, or a slight convex from a stone. A very slight “rocking” motion at the end of each pass can produce a convex if you prefer.  

Best for Kitchen Knives: Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker  

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Key Features 

• Ceramic Stones: Medium (brown) and fine (white)
• Can be set to 30° (15° each side) or 40° (20° each side) 
• Aluminum safety rods
• Can sharpen knives, scissors, and awls
• Price: $89

Pros

• Precise sharpening
• Easy to use
• Versatile 

Cons

• Learning curve

Kitchen knives usually aren’t taking big hits, and really need more maintenance than anything. The Sharpmaker is perfect for maintenance. It comes with ceramic rods of differing grits, depending on how much material you need to remove. It’s also a semi-guided system and lets you choose from some preset angles. You hold the knife nice and straight and make alternating passes down each ceramic rod with a sweeping motion to get it sharp from the heel all the way to the tip. Again, it will take some practice, but this sharpener gives excellent results, and can bring you edge to a near mirror polish with practice. If your edge has some real damage, it may take some time to sharpen it out. The Sharpmaker doesn’t have a coarse enough rod to remove damage quickly. It’s worth noting that this system will work with blades of any size. You can put a nice v-edge on anything from a Case Mini-Trapper to a meat carving knife.  

Best Whetstone: Keenbest Sharpening Stone 

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Key Features

• Two double-sides stones
• Silicon carbide construction
• 7”x2.2”x1” sized stones

Pros 

• Sturdy and simple design
• Inexpensive cost
• Contains all you need to effectively sharpen your knives in one kit

Cons

• It comes with a set angle guide that may not work for every style of knife you sharpen
• At 7 pounds, it’s a little heavy for travel

The Keenbest Sharpening Stone is an inexpensive, easy-to-use set that comes with two whetstones, one with 400/1000 grit and the other with 3000/8000 grit. The heavy duty base is made of bamboo, with rubber on the bottom to keep it in place when sharpening — a convenience and a safety feature. The whetstones are two different colors, a light green and a light orange, allowing the user to quickly identify the proper stone. It also comes with a “resurfacer,” otherwise known as a flattening stone that is used to flatten the whetstones as they get worn away with use. Keenbest includes a leather strop and an angle guide — everything you need to sharpen and maintain your blades is included. Keenbest includes a helpful list of tips for using this system. There are more expensive stones on the market, but these stones are highly effective, and with a little patience and work, are great for getting that sharp cutting edge you’re looking for. -Greg Campbell

Best Strop: Bacher

Bacher

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Key Features

• Rough and smooth side
• 12.5 inches long
• 2.17 inches wide
• Includes four grits of stropping compound

Pros

• Plenty of surface area
• High-quality leather 

Cons

• Some users might prefer two smooth leather sides

I use this strop daily for my leather working tools and for touching up my pocket knife between sharpenings. I keep a medium stropping compound on one side and a fine compound on the other. With this strop and the included stropping compound you can take an edge that’s sharp and bring it back to very sharp in just a few swipes. If you keep your tools sharp and never let them get dull, you won’t have to use a stone unless you do some damage. That’s why a strop is a must have-tool for maintaining your blades. -S.E.

Best Honing Rod: Noble Home & Chef

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features

• 2000/3000 Grit
• 11.5 inches long
• Ceramic

Pros

• Great for kitchen knives
• Easy to use

Cons

• Can break if dropped 

Open my kitchen knife drawer and you’ll find this ceramic hone. I bought it after a friend of mine, who is a custom knife maker, recommended it. I use it to touch up my chef’s knife before every use and instead of sharpening weekly, I’m down to sharpening my kitchen knives monthly. Just like a strop, the key is maintenance. Keep your knives sharp, and you won’t have to sharpen them. When it comes to honing rods the most common mistake is using them the wrong way. If you are holding the hone in one hand as you quickly swipe the blade in the other, you’re doing it wrong. 

The right way to use it is to put the tip of the hone on your cutting board, then while maintaining a consistent angle make even passes on each side of the blade. S.E.

Best for Your Pack: Work Sharp Pivot

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features 

•  25 degree carbide sharpening blades
• 320 grit diamond sharpening surface
• Fine-grit ceramic rods
• Weight: 2.4 ounces

Pros

• Easy to use
• Versatile 

Cons

• One angle

When your hunting knife gets dull while you’re boning out an elk, you need a sharpener that will quickly get you back to work. That’s where the Wicked Edge Pivot excels. It’s not a fancy sharpener and it’s not going to produce mirror edges, but when your knife is dull, it will make it sharp. At 2.4 ounces this palm-sized sharpener isn’t too big to keep in your pack. Since my hunting knife of choice is now a fixed blade, the Pivot has a permanent place in my kill kit. One of the keys to using this sharpener is to not press down on the blade, just use the weight of the knife for downward pressure as you pull the knife across the rods. -S.E.

Read Next: How to Sharpen a Knife

How to Choose the Best Knife Sharpener

My dad was a sushi chef and he started everyday by soaking his whetstones and bringing his knives to a fine edge. His stones are still being used to sharpen my kitchen knives and they’ll last for many years to come. 

But they’re not the best knife sharpener for every job. On my knives made from high-rockwell stainless steels, I prefer an electric sharpener to repair chips and diamond stones for general maintenance. And sometimes, getting the whetstones prepped is a pain. So I’ll reach for a honing rod to quickly get a blade ready to cut, sorry dad. 

Types of Knife Sharpeners

You can make a dull knife sharp with a car window or a thousand dollar sharpening stone. We’ve reviewed a lot of options between those two options and the trick is going to be determining which is best for you. Here are some pros and cons to consider for the three main types of sharpeners.

Electric Knife Sharpeners

Pros

• Sharpen knives quickly
• Easy to use
• Great for repairing chips
• Produce a convex edge

Cons

• Can ruin a knife quickly
• The convex edge isn’t ideal for all cutting applications 

Guided Knife Sharpeners

Pros

• Easy to use
• Sharpen most knives

Cons

• Takes time to setup and use 

Stones

Pros

• The ultimate sharpening flex
• Can produce a toothy or fine edge
• Don’t remove too much steel

Cons

• Learning curve 

Honing a Knife versus Sharpening a Knife

A knife sharpener removes metal from a knife to create a new cutting edge. A honing rod refines an already sharp edge. Think of a honing rod or pull-through sharpener as maintenance tools for keeping your knife sharp. Even with consistent honing, your knife will eventually need sharpening by a stone or belt sharpener. 

Type of Edge 

There are two primary types of edges a sharpener can put on a knife, a v-edge and a convex edge. The v-edge has a cross-section that looks like a “V.” A convex edge has a slight curve to the bevel, like a “V” that curves inward slightly at the bottom. A convex edge is generally more durable, and less likely to chip or roll under heavy use, but they usually don’t feel as sharp as a v-edge of the same angle. Both types of edges can be made sharp enough to whittle hair, and both are great in the right application. 

The last factor you should look at before choosing a sharpener is edge angle. To keep it simple, the smaller, more acute the angle, the sharper the knife will be, and the better the outright cutting performance. But, that performance comes at the cost of edge strength and stability. The lower your angle, the more likely you are to chip or roll your edge if you run into something hard like bone, or a staple in the cardboard, or a bullet fragment in your game meat. Many systems have angle guides that help you maintain a consistent angle across the entire edge, and they let you pick from a range of angles. 

FAQs

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Advertising does not influence our gear reviews and it never will. While we always focus our coverage on standout products—because we want our readers to be aware of the latest and greatest gear—we also cover the flaws and quirks of any given product.

Final Thoughts on the Best Knife Sharpeners

Few things match the satisfaction of taking a rough edge to a polished edge that will split hairs. Whether you choose a manual knife sharpener like the Wicked Edge or an electric sharpener like the Work Sharp, you can produce a sharp knife that will give you the satisfaction of slicing paper with ease.

• Best Overall: Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener – Elite
• Best Electric: Work Sharp Ken Onion
• Best for Pocket Knives: Wicked Edge Pro Pack 1
• Best Sharpening Stone: Smith’s Arkansas Stone
• Best for Kitchen Knives: Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker  
• Best Whetstone: Keenbest Sharpening Stone 
• Best Strop: Bacher
• Best Honing Rod: Noble Home & Chef
• Best for Your Pack: Work Sharp Pivot

The post The Best Knife Sharpeners of 2023, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Whetstone		Keenbest Sharpening Stone	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Four grits, an angle guide, and a strop will sharpen any blade.
Best Natural Stone Sharpener		Smith’s Tri6 Arkansas Stone Sharpening System	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary A well-engineered three-stone system puts your knife’s blade at a comfortable height.
Best for Beginners		Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary This four-stone system is easy to set up, has foolproof angle guides, and will sharpen stainless blades.

The best sharpening stones are must-have tools for everyone from the most avid knife enthusiast to the amateur chef. These systems bring new life back into old knives and will allow you to make clean, easy cuts with your favorite hunting knife, fillet knife, bushcraft knife, butchering knife, or that old chef’s knife you use to chop up vegetables for venison stew.

I’m a custom knife maker, so I’ve had quite a bit of experience with a variety of stones in different styles and materials. To help you choose the best sharpening stone for you, I bought and tested several options. Here are the sharpening stones that made my top picks.

• Best Whetstone: Keenbest Sharpening Stone 
• Best Natural Stone Sharpener: Smith’s Tri6 Arkansas Stone Sharpening System
• Best Sharpening Stone for Pocket Knives: Ultra Sharp II 
• Best Sharpening Stone for Beginners: Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System
• Best Diamond Professional-Grade Sharpening System: Wicked Edge WE130
• Best Axe Sharpening Puck: Straight Grain Axe Sharpening Puck

How I Tested the Best Sharpening Stones

As I tested each knife sharpener I used a set criteria to evaluate them. Here were the main factors: 

• Ease of Use (Can anyone get a good edge using the stone?
• Accessories and Features (Does it have or work with angle guides?
• Versatility (Can it sharpen hard stainless steel as easily as carbon steel?)
• Longevity (How long will it last?

How do I test knife sharpeners? I sharpen a bunch of knives on them, and see how they perform with different blade steels and heat treatments. As a custom knife maker, I have quite a bit of knives and knife sharpening to do, so I gave each stone a good workout.

The Best Sharpening Stones: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Whetstone: Keenbest Sharpening Stone 

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Key Features

• Two double-sides stones
• Silicon carbide construction
• 7 x 2.2 x 1 inches sized stones

Pros 

• Sturdy and simple design
• Inexpensive cost
• Contains all you need to effectively sharpen your knives in one kit

Cons

• It comes with a set angle guide that may not work for every style of knife you sharpen
• At 7 pounds, it’s a little heavy for travel

The Keenbest Sharpening Stone is an inexpensive, easy-to-use set that comes with two whetstones, one with 400/1000 grit and the other with 3000/8000 grit. The heavy duty base is made of bamboo, with rubber on the bottom to keep it in place when sharpening—a convenience and safety feature. The whetstones are two different colors, a light green and a light orange, allowing the user to quickly identify the proper stone. It also comes with a “resurfacer,” otherwise known as a flattening stone that is used to flatten the whetstones as they get worn away with use.

Keenbest includes a leather strop and an angle guide—everything you need to sharpen and maintain your blades is included. Keenbest also includes a helpful list of tips for using this system. There are more expensive stones on the market, but these stones are highly effective, and with a little patience and work, are great for getting that sharp cutting edge you’re looking for.

Best Natural Stone Sharpener: Smith’s Tri6 Arkansas Stone Sharpening System

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Key Features

• Three stones with different grades of coarseness, including one Arkansas stone
• Holding cradle 
• Dimensions: 4.6 x 9.7 x 4.6 inches

Pros

• Well designed, three-sided rotating holder makes switching from one stone to the other a breeze
• The stone is held at a nice height allowing unobstructed movement while using
• Made in U.S.

Cons

• The base is made of a lightweight plastic material that may break if dropped

This system features a coarse synthetic stone, a medium synthetic stone, and a fine Arkansas stone. Each stone is 6 inches long and color-coded to ensure quick identification of the desired grit. The stones are mounted on a molded plastic triangle with handles for easy stone rotation and easy to read stone identification. Switching to the next grit of stone is as simple as rotating the triangle in the provided cradle and adding a bit of oil. The simple, well engineered system is a perfect setup for most any sharpening job. 

The well-built system on the best natural stone sharpener holds the stone high off the table, allowing the user unobstructed movement while sharpening. Smith’s has also included an angle guide for finding the correct sharpening angle. 

Best Sharpening Stone for Pocket Knives: Ultra Sharp II 

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Key Features

• Three different grits: 300/600/1200
• Each stone is easily identified by the convenient labeling
• Stone dimensions: 6 x 2 x 0.25 inches

Pros

• Easily sharpens tough knives
• Not too thin

Cons

• 1200 grit isn’t considered extra fine by some avid knife sharpeners

This Ultra Sharp II kit takes the bite out of your abrasion resistant knife edges. That hard to sharpen knife will quickly become tame when using this best sharpening stone for pocket knives. The diamond impregnated surface that comes in the standard coarse, medium and extra fine grits gets even the most abrasion resistant knives sharp.

They’re overall very easy to use and unlike some of the inexpensive diamond plates out there, these are not too thin. They feel good in your hand and have enough weight to be stable while sharpening your knives. Easy to read labeling makes determining the coarseness of the stones very easy. 

Best Sharpening Stone for Beginners: Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System

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Key Features

• Comes with storage case
• Ease of setup/ fairly accurate angle control
• Four grits and four angles

Pros

• Easy setup and well written instructions
• Plastic case for ease of transport and keeping system together
• Lansky offers accessories to make this kit even more user friendly

Cons

• Thumb screws loosen a bit with use, and may impact your sharpening angle

Lansky systems feature a jaw-like clamp that holds the spine of the knife, while the stones attach to a metal rod. The rod is placed into a premade hole in the jaws that determine the angle of sharpening. It’s a simple setup that does a pretty good job of controlling the angle at which you are sharpening. I prefer the diamond systems to the Arkansas stone systems, because the diamond stones really help sharpen the most stubborn stainless steel blades. Another advantage of the Lansky is that there are quite a number of accessories and other stones you can purchase to really customize your system. One accessory I would highly encourage is the Lansky Universal Mount LM009. This mount really helps hold the system and allows you to use both hands while sharpening. 

The controlled angle system has been tried and tested over time and still considered one of the best systems for the price. The knife clamp has 4 set angles of 17, 20, 25, and 30 degrees. These angles should give most users the correct angles for most of their knives. It’s easy to set up and use, making it my pick for best sharpening stone for beginners.

Best Diamond Professional-Grade Sharpening System: Wicked Edge WE130

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Key Features

• Four grits, including two diamond grits
• One-step cam lock knife vise
• Easy angle adjustment of 1 degree

Pros 

• Ease of use
• Accessories can be added, i.e different grit stones, leather strop, etc.
• Can sharpen blades up to 15 inches long

Cons 

• Price will be a hurdle for most people 

The Wicked Edge is one of the most precise, angle-controlled systems you can purchase. This system has the ability for main angle adjustment of 1 degree, and fine angle adjustment of 0.5 degree. The knife clamp allows the system to be used on the widest variety of knife grinds, including blades that are full-flat-ground or distally tapered. The system includes coarse 100 grit, medium coarse 200 grit, and medium fine 400 diamond grit, and fine 600 diamond grit.

It is expensive, but the design of the system is very user friendly and works very well. Many different stones and accessories can be purchased separately. The uniqueness of this system is the ultra-precision of the sharpening angle and how the system setup allows both hands to be free to quickly sharpen the blade. Unfortunately, the price of the system will be a barrier for most people, but it is an excellent sharpener. It can be purchased with an aluminum or granite base that allows for a solid mount and it can also be attached to your home work bench if desired.

This is a dream system for avid sharpeners or collectors trying to save the original cutting angle of their knives. The system is well thought out, user friendly, and can be used by professional sharpeners to get the correct cutting and aid a mirror polish to the cutting edge. It’s no doubt one of the best sharpening stones you can buy.

Best Axe-Sharpening Puck: Straight Grain Axe Sharpening Puck

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Key Features

• 7.8 ounces 
• 3-inch diameter 
• 200 and 400 grit sides

Pros 

• Made in the U.S.
• Aluminum oxide 
• Easy to hold in hand

Cons 

• A higher grit puck to go along with this one would be helpful

When outdoors and you are using chopping tools you want something to get the cutting edge back that is lightweight and easy to carry. The sharpening puck is a great design that fulfills these requirements. This puck is made in the U.S. and comes in two grits (200 and 400) on the opposing sides of the puck. The stones are set and cut by hand, and the puck has finger grooves to protect your hand while sharpening. 

This best axe sharpening puck from Straight Grain easily sharpens outdoor tools such as axes, hatchets, and machetes. The weight and size makes it easy to carry in your pack, and allows for quick tuning of the edges of your wood cutting tools. 

FAQs

Things to Consider Before Buying a Knife Sharpener 

Will the knife sharpener be easy to use? Sharpening happens by removing material from the blade edge, and there really is no way to do this without some work. 

Do you want to get a precise edge angle? If getting a perfect 20 degree angle is important to you, then purchase one of the systems that holds the knife and controls the angles of the stones.

Do you want a polished edge on your knives? Get a system that offers a very high grit.

Will you be taking the sharpener with you? Although I prefer a good size stone when sharpening, the large stones aren’t convenient to take in the wild. 

You may have noticed that I didn’t include any motorized sharpeners. This is because most of the knives we get in the shop for repair have been damaged by these motorized units. These systems use a stone or belt that is turned by a motor. If you don’t have a lot of experience with them, it’s very easy to damage a knife by either removing too much material or by potentially overheating the edge and damaging the temper. I don’t recommend motorized systems unless you have extensive experience in sharpening and take time to learn how quickly it removes material. In our knife shop, we mostly use our belt sanders to sharpen the knives we make, but we have tons of experience in using these machines and slow the motors down as far as we can to control the removal of metal and the heat on the edge.

Sharpening Tips

Keep a Sharpie in your knife sharpening kit to color the cutting edge of your knife. If you do not keep the correct edge angle while you sharpen, you will still see the black line on the edge. Secondly, don’t cut toward yourself, and you’ll never get cut. Third, if in an emergency you don’t have a stone with you, the bottom of a coffee cup or even the top edge of your car window can be used in a pinch.

Experiment with different tools or systems to find one that works best for you. I prefer whetstones but they may not be for everyone. Keep all of your sharpening tools together in a safe place. Invest the time and a bit of cash, and you won’t carry dull knives anymore.

Why Trust Us

Outdoor Life editors don’t just enjoy hunting and fishing as hobbies—the pursuit of these passions make us who we are. Our writers are diehard outdoorsmen and women, too. For more than a century, OL has been evaluating the latest and greatest outdoor gear and providing our readers with no-B.S. reviews. We test products in the field under real-world conditions. We write about the pros and cons of every product we review so that you know exactly what you’re getting if you decide to purchase the gear we cover. Only the best hunting, fishing, backpacking, camping, and survival gear will make the cut in our reviews and roundups. If we’re covering it, you know it’s legit.

Final Thoughts on the Best Sharpening Stones 

The best sharpening stones are the ones that you’ll use often. With practice, any quality stone is going to give you a great edge you can maintain. Here are my picks for the top sharpening stones:

• Best Whetstone: Keenbest Sharpening Stone 
• Best Natural Stone Sharpener: Smith’s Tri6 Arkansas Stone Sharpening System
• Best Sharpening Stone for Pocket Knives: Ultra Sharp II 
• Best Sharpening Stone for Beginners: Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System
• Best Diamond Professional-Grade Sharpening System: Wicked Edge WE130
• Best Axe Sharpening Puck: Straight Grain Axe Sharpening Puck

The post The Best Sharpening Stones of 2023 appeared first on Outdoor Life.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

A knife is perhaps the most useful tool for anyone who loves the outdoors, and learning how to sharpen a knife is an important skill that will take time to perfect. But with some practice and concentration, anyone can learn to keep their knives sharp and ready for the next cutting task. Through years of experience in my knife sharpening business, I’ve developed a system for quickly getting a sharp edge that I’ll share with you in this article. I’m going to give you a step-by-step guide for two methods of knife sharpening: First, with a traditional sharpening stone. Second, with sandpaper and a mousepad. Yes, you read that correctly, a mouse pad sharpener. 

How to Sharpen a Knife with a Stone  

There are many great knife sharpeners on the market that are easy to use and effective. But, learning how to sharpen a knife with a stone is a skill everyone should know. Now, there are many options out there for stones which range from cheap synthetic stones that wear out with one or two uses, all the way to high-end Japanese water stones that cost hundreds for each grit. For this knife sharpening tutorial, I’ll be using an inexpensive, but effective, medium natural Arkansas stone that I’ve had for years.

Read Next: Best Sharpening Stones 

What You’ll Need

• Sharpening stone of your choice. Smith’s and Work Sharp offer quality stones at a fair price.
• Permanent marker
• Water or a light mineral oil (some stones require oil)

Step 1: Water

I like to use water on my stones, so I begin by submerging my stone in a Tupperware container filled with water while I prepare everything else. It’s not a good idea to use a stone dry because the metal shavings will “clog up” the stone and make it ineffective. During the sharpening process you may rinse the stone and soak it again. Too much water being drizzled on the stone during the process won’t be a problem, but too little can be. Make sure your stone has plenty of water on it during the entire process.

Step 2: Marker

Take your marker and color the sharpening bevel. This will allow you to see where the stone is contacting the edge so that you don’t go too shallow or too deep. When the marker is gone, you’ll know that you’ve gotten to the apex of the edge.

Step 3: Find the Angle

Hold your knife close to the blade and lay it on the stone with the edge facing you. Place the fingers of your free hand on the spine (back/non-sharpened) of the knife and let the tips hang over and rest on the stone. Keeping your fingers on the same spot and letting them barely drag across the stone will help you keep a consistent angle until you really get the feel for it. 

Hold the knife’s spine off the stone at about a 20-degree angle. Only the edge should touch as you make a light pass starting from the knife’s tip then moving across and away on the stone until the heel touches the stone. 

Then check where the marker is worn off. If only a narrow line is worn off right at the very edge, your angle was too steep, and you need to lay the blade slightly lower to the stone. If the marker is only worn on the other side of the bevel, you were too shallow, and you need to bring the blade a little higher off the stone. Make a few passes until you find the sweet spot where the entire edge is contacting the stone, then go to Step 4. 

Tip: Finding and maintaining a consistent angle is the most difficult part of sharpening with a stone. An angle guide is a handy accessory to buy with your sharpening stone. The guide will keep your angle consistent and act as training wheels as you get used to freehand sharpening. 

Step 4: Raise a Burr

Now that you have your angle, make passes on the stone until you feel a burr on the edge. Carefully (and lightly) “wipe” your thumb or finger across the edge. Make sure the motion is perpendicular to the edge, not parallel to it. One will allow you to feel the burr, and one will likely slice you. 

It should feel “rough” going from one direction and smoother from the opposite direction. Sometimes you can see the burr. It may just look like a micro-bevel that will catch the light, but it’s a tiny “flap” of metal that has been folded over the edge. 

When the whole edge has a burr, you can go back to Step 3, and do the same thing on the other side. (When you raise the burr on the other side, the burr may begin to come off and look like a super fine piece of wire as it detaches from the edge.) For most people, the hardest thing about this process is switching hands with the knife. Training your non-dominant hand may take some time. If you can’t get the hang of switching hands, you can flip the knife over so that the edge is facing away from you, and keep it in the same hand. But this will require that you learn the motion backwards. Either way works fine as long as you keep the angle consistent.

Step 5: Refine

After you raise a burr on each side of the bevel, you will want to refine the edge. Make alternating passes on the stone, always with the blade’s edge trailing the spine. I usually do ten passes on the left, then ten on the right, then five, three, two, and one pass on each side. After that, I’ll check the sharpness by slicing a piece of paper. If it goes through it cleanly, then you’re all done. If there are some hang-ups or it won’t slice well, it may need some more refining, or you may not have raised the burr correctly.

Sharpening with a stone will definitely take some practice, and you will mess up more than once. But this is a great skill to develop that will absolutely be worth the time it takes to learn. One last note on using stones: Some people will progress through several stones to go finer and finer. If you do that, just raise a burr on both sides on each stone until your final stone. When the final grit is reached, you can raise your burrs, then refine the edge. Don’t bother refining on any stones other than your final grit.  

How to Sharpen a Knife with a DIY Sharpener: Sandpaper and Mousepad

Sharpening a knife with this sandpaper method will give you a convex edge on your knife. The good news is learning how to sharpen a knife will be easier since you don’t have to keep the angle perfect the entire time. As for the Sandpaper, I recommend the automotive wet/dry type. You can buy them in variety packs with a range of grits that will suit sharpening quite well.

What You’ll Need

• Wet/dry sandpaper ranging from 320 to at least 1000 grit
• Permanent marker
• Mousepad (bigger is better)
• Scrap of wood and glue (you’ll need a saw to trim the wood)

Step 1: Prep

Cut your scrap of wood to 3- to 4-inches wide, and as long as your mousepad. Cut the mousepad to fit the width of the wood and glue the fabric side (the surface the mouse moves on) to the wood. You can do this to both sides of the wood so it won’t slide around on your table. Having the rubber side out helps hold the sandpaper in place. I have used a general spray adhesive and had good results.  

Step 2: Marker

Just as with the sharpening stone method, I recommend using a permanent marker to mark the edge bevel on your knife. Color the whole edge bevel so that you can easily see where the paper is removing material. This will help you determine the correct angle in the next step.

Step 3: Find the Angle

The angle is slightly less important with a convex edge because the edge has a curve to it due to the flex in the mousepad base. Even if you are off by a couple of degrees, the pad’s give will cover your mistakes. Lay a piece of 600-grit paper on the block, and hold it in place with your fingertips at the bottom. Hold the knife with the edge facing you and at a 15- to 20-degree angle off the paper. Starting with the tip at the bottom corner, push the knife away from you while sweeping towards the opposite upper corner of the block. Now look at your marker to see where you’re removing material. The same adjustments apply here that I described in the sharpening stone method.

Step 4: Raise a Burr

Just as with the stone method, once you find your angle, you will make passes on one side until you raise a burr, then switch sides and raise a burr again. Don’t start with any grit lower than 320 unless you have deep chips or rolls in the blade. The lower grits will remove material quite fast, and you can mess up your blade if you aren’t careful. Also, you don’t need a lot of pressure for this method. Too much will cause a lot of deformation to the pad, and make your convex too steep. A lighter touch works best. Remember to be careful with your fingers that hold the paper. 

Step 5: Refine

Once you have raised a burr on both sides, you can change the grit and begin to refine your edge. Take the next grit and do ten passes per side (or until you have removed the scratches from the previous grit), then move up and do the same until you’ve reached your final grit, then do ten strokes on each side, and reduce the number as described in the stone method. If you go up to 2000 grit, you will start to get a mirror-polished finish on your blade. If you are diligent about maintaining your angle and hitting the apex, you will have a very sharp knife by the time you reach 2000+ grit. You can get grits of 6000 and above, which will really polish and refine your edge and I can easily get an edge that will whittle hair with this method.

Remember that using this method always requires the edge to be trailing the spine. You can’t make passes where the edge is going into the paper. That can work on a stone, but not here. Also, the paper can be taped to the edges of the wood so that you don’t have to hold it with your off-hand. I generally just hold the paper myself, but you just have to stay aware of where the blade and your fingers are. Although this method is more forgiving than a stone, a consistent angle will yield the best results.

Read Next: Best Pocket Knives

How to Use a Honing Rod

Drew Conover

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This method should really be called “How to maintain and touch up a knife with a honing rod,” because a honing rod is best for, well, honing an edge. Whether the honing rod is metal (think butcher shop) or ceramic, it’s designed for keeping an edge sharp. They are best when used frequently, between uses of the knife. There are better options for sharpening a dull knife with a damaged edge. 

Step 1: Choose Your Style 

Honing rods can be handheld, or mounted in a tabletop holder. If you’re new to sharpening, or not very confident with holding the knife and hone at the same time, it’s best to go with a tabletop version. 

Step 2: Find Your Angle

As you make a pass on the hone, you will start off very shallow and gradually increase the angle until you feel the edge just begin to “bite.” This means you have reached the apex, and you will actually be refining the edge, not the material behind it. Repeat this for the other side of the knife, and take note. Keeping the angle consistent is very important. 

Step 3: Hone Your Edge

Once you have found the correct angle, make alternating strokes on either side of the blade. Be sure that as you make your stroke, you are beginning at the heel of the blade, and finishing at the tip. For a handheld hone, your stroke will begin at the far end of the hone, with the heel of the edge, and as you move toward the handle of the hone, you will be pulling the blade back to get to the tip. The motion will be down and outward. Then bring your blade back up, cant it the opposite way, and make a stroke the same way for the other side. Take your time and move slowly. With experience will come speed. For a horizontal table mounted hone, the motion will be very similar. Away from you and outward, heel to tip, then flip the knife so the edge is pointing toward you, and make a stroke toward you from heel to tip. 

Step 4: Check Your Results

If you are finding that your blade has lost some sharpness, you may have gone too steep with your angle, or you may be “rolling” your wrist during the motion, which changes the angle. If you have gone too shallow with your angle, there will be no change to the sharpness, because you weren’t reaching the apex of the edge. If you aren’t getting the results you want, try making small changes to the angle you’re using. If you aren’t sure which way to go with the angle, color the edge with a marker, and make a few strokes. You will see where the marker is worn off, and that will let you know how to change the angle. If you have chips or damage to the edge, you may need to use a stone or other method before honing.

How to Sharpen a Knife with a Worksharp Knife Sharpener

Drew Conover

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Worksharp makes a wide variety of sharpeners, but this will cover how to sharpen with one of their belt style sharpeners. Using the Worksharp will give you a convex edge. This is a great way to go as long as you get your technique down. When done properly, it’s not hard to get a near mirror finish on your edge with one of these versatile tools. 

Step 1: Choose Your Angle. 

Depending on the model you have, you will be able to select from a few different preset guides that will determine the angle of your edge. For thinner knives, like kitchen or filet knives, choose a lower angle in the 15- to 18-degree range. For pocket knives and general use blades, 20 degrees is my favorite. If you plan on using a bigger blade for heavy chopping or just want a really strong edge, 22- to 25-degrees will work well. Select the guide that will suit you best and clip it on, or rotate it into place, depending on the model. 

Step 2: Choose Your Grit

Is your blade still pretty sharp, but just needs a touch up? A fine grit belt should be your choice. Do you have some small knicks in the edge? Maybe a slightly blunted tip? Start with a medium belt. Does the edge look like you chop rocks for fun? Start with the coarse belt to get those repairs done more quickly. Wherever you start, you will progress through the belts getting finer and finer until you finish. 

Step 3: Make a Pass 

Turn your Worksharp on, and if there are different speeds available, select the lowest speed while you are learning. Going too fast, especially with a coarse belt, can remove a lot of material in a hurry, and end up making a mess of your knife. Choose a side of the belt, set your blade against the angle guide, and lower the knife until it contacts the belt. Starting at the heel, pull the knife back toward you, and as you get toward the tip, raise the back of the knife up to keep the belly of the blade parallel to the ground. Be careful though—raising the back too high can result in rounding the tip of the knife. Avoid putting more pressure near the tip than you do at the heel. Go lightly, and let the belt do the work. 

Step 4: Check for a Burr

It may take a few passes on the same side before you raise a burr. You will be able to feel it with a fingernail, and usually see it on the edge. Once the whole edge has a burr, you’re ready to raise one on the other side of the edge. Repeat Step 3 on the other side of the edge until you have raised a burr. 

Step 5: Alternate Sides, Progress Through the Belts

Once you have raised a burr on both sides of the edge, you can change the belt to the next grit higher (finer). Begin alternating strokes, one per side. Make several passes on each side until you begin to see the scratch pattern from the previous grit disappear. When all you see are the finer scratches, move to the next belt, and repeat. By the time you are done making these alternating passes, and you have worked through the grits, you should have one very sharp knife, with a durable convex edge. 

Read Next: Best Knife Sharpeners

How to Strop a Knife

Drew Conover

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Stropping a knife is the final step in really getting your blade super sharp, and it’s also a great way to maintain your edge between sharpenings. Most strops are made of leather, but there are some cotton and even paper strops available, too. Since a wood block mounted leather is the most common, and, in my opinion, the most effective strop, here’s how to use one to get the most out of your edge.

Step 1: Compound

There are many different compounds available for strops. Like sandpaper, they are rated by their grit. When you buy a leather strop, it’s usually bare, and has no polishing compound in it. You will need to “load” the strop before you use it. There are tons of choices ranging from paste, to bars of compound, to diamond emulsion sprays to load your strop. I generally use the bars, and rub each strop with a different compound from coarsest to finest. You don’t need multiple strops, but most have two sides for a coarse and fine compound. Load your strop with some compound by rubbing it in, or spraying it on, then grab your knife and get ready. 

Step 2: Get Your Technique

While it’s fine to use a sharpening stone with the edge “biting” into it, strops can only be used with the edge trailing in your stroke. Otherwise, you end up with a sliced up piece of leather and a duller knife. Start with the edge facing you and the heel of the blade fully on the strop. Push the knife away from you and move it outward so that you finish your pass with just the last inch or so of the knife on the strop. Be careful not to roll your wrist as you do this because it will increase the angle and dull the end of the blade. Keep the angle the same as how you sharpened it. After your first pass, lay the blade flat on the strop, roll it over the spine of the blade so that the other side of the edge is now on the strop. Then make a pass with the knife moving toward you, with the edge trailing behind. Be sure to move from heel to tip as you make the pass. This will keep the tip from biting into the strop and damaging it. 

Step 3: Strop Until Sharp

When you figure out the motion of stropping, and you see how it takes your edge to the next level, you may get addicted to it. I like to listen to podcasts while stropping my knives. Take your time, and make alternating passes, back and forth and back and forth. You will begin to see that edge really shine, and you can get a near perfect mirror polish on there with good compound, and a little elbow grease. Don’t use too much pressure, maybe slightly more than you do when you’re writing. Let the compound do the work, and enjoy the results. Remember that stropping is also a great way to keep your blades sharp. After each use, hit the strops for a minute or two, and you can go a long, long time between actually having to sharpen the blade, provided you don’t damage the edge too badly while cutting. A few minutes on a good strop can usually straighten out minor edge rolls and get your blade back in shape so you don’t have to remove material by sharpening. 

Six Knife Sharpening Tips 

Now that you know the basics of how to sharpen a knife, here are some tips that will help you master the skill. 

1: Don’t Let Your Knife Get Dull

Letting your knife get to the point where it will hardly cut will make a lot more work for you. If you take a minute every week (or every day, depending on use) to make a few passes and keep your knife honed, you will rarely have to sharpen it. I use a leather strop once or twice a week to keep my knives in shape, and they rarely need a full sharpening like I have described here. Use a strop just like you would the sandpaper method.

2: Angle Guides Are Your Friend

A few companies have small angle guides that come with their stones that look like little wedges. These wedges are meant to help you get a feel for the angle. Most come in 17, 20, or 25 degrees. For a beginner, these can really speed up the learning process. Once you get a feel for it, you most likely won’t keep using them, but they are great aids in learning.

3: Don’t Forget the Belly

It can be difficult to get a consistent angle on the belly (curved portion near the tip). I overcome this by always keeping the edge parallel with the bottom of the stone. At the beginning of the pass, the knife handle will be pointing away from you so that the tip is parallel to the bottom (side of the stone closest to you). As your pass progresses, the handle will end up parallel to the bottom of the stone as you reach the straight part of the edge.

4: Take Your Time

Don’t sit down and try to learn this if you have a lot of other stuff to do. Set aside some time to practice this skill so you can slowly work through it and absorb what you’re doing. Trying to rush through this will frustrate you, and likely yield poor results, or injury.

5: Practice on a Cheap Knife

Everyone has one of those gas station knives kicking around, and they are perfect to practice on. Most come with a terrible edge anyway. If you slip and scratch the surface, you won’t be heartbroken, and if you foul up the edge, you won’t lose sleep. Once you’ve got some confidence, move up to the stuff that matters.

6: Don’t “Roll” Your Knife

One of the most common mistakes I see is people rolling the knife at the end of a pass on the stone or paper. This will change the angle and prevent you from getting a good edge. At the end of the pass, keep the knife at the same angle and lift straight up to come back for another pass. Your wrist shouldn’t look like you’re twisting a throttle on a motorcycle at the end of the pass. Keep your wrist still. Lift your arm at the end, don’t twist or roll the knife.

Final Thoughts on Knife Sharpening

Although the examples used here were Arkansas Stones and Sandpaper, the same basic steps and principles can be applied to most sharpening techniques, whether they be sharpening a knife with a guided system, like a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener or a ceramic rod. You still have to establish an angle, raise a burr, and refine the edge. Learning how to sharpen a pocket knife or kitchen knife shouldn’t feel like a mystery, even if there is some art to it. Remember that perfect practice makes perfect, so take your time and focus on getting angle and technique correct, and you’ll be enjoying a sharp edge before you know it.

The post How to Sharpen a Knife: A Step-by-Step Guide to a Sharp Edge appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Perhaps the most important task of hunting knives is processing game in the field and on the meat pole. For that a hunter needs a knife that slices and holds an edge. However, it also has to hold up to daily tasks like splitting kindling and cutting rope. We’ve selected several of the best hunting knives that we’ve tested with those qualities. Here are our top picks.

• Best Light Fixed Blade: Benchmade 15700 Flyway
• Best Replaceable Blade: Outdoor Edge Razorlite
• Best Handmade: Montana Knife Company Blackfoot 2.0
• Best Folder: Buck 110 Slim
• Best No-Frills: Giantmouse GMF2
• Best Compact: CRKT BIWA
• Best Duck’s Head Knife: Outdoor Edge: Duck Duo
• Best Butchering Knife: Benchmade Meatcrafter
• Best Affordable Do-It-All Hunting Knife: Outdoor Life Camping Fixed Blade Knife
• Best Survival Knife: Helle Utvaer

The Best Hunting Knives: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Light Fixed Blade: Benchmade 15700 Flyway

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features

• Steel: CPM-154 at 58-61 HRC
• Blade Length: 2.7 inches
• Blade Thickness: 3/32 inches
• Weight: 2.1 ounces
• G10 Handles 
• 14-degree bevel
• Kydex sheath
• Price: $180

Pros

• Good ergonomics
• Good edge retention 
• Light

Cons

• Not ideal for hard-use tasks

Product Description 

On a mountain side in British Columbia I regretted my decision to bring an ultralight replaceable blade knife to quarter an elk. The blades popped out, needed to be changed often, got gummed up, and were flat out annoying to use. One of my hobbies is knife making, and when I got home I started working on a light fixed blade design. Then I stumbled across the Flyway and it was pretty close to my design. 

So I got one in hand and put it to work on a whitetail. I used it to field dress and butcher the entire deer without touching up the blade. Two days later, I used it to butcher pheasants and quail. 

Steel

According to Knife Steel Nerds, CPM 154 is tougher than S30V and known for its good edge retention. That toughness makes it a great steel choice for a thin knife and after my weekend of butchering, the knife could still push cut thin paper. 

Blade Shape

The blade has a slight drop and plenty of belly for skinning. While field dressing, the fine point and slight drop were perfect for making the initial cut up the deer’s body. It’s also great for making skinning cuts where the knife edge is facing out as you slide the knife under the skin. The length makes it easy to control and when you’re reaching into a chest cavity, it’s easy to know where your knife is. For such a small blade it has a lot of belly, which is great for skinning and deboning. 

Ergos

I rarely hold a skinning knife like a hammer or as I would a survival knife when making a feather stick. I use a pinch grip with my index finger on the knife’s spine. The Flyway’s sculpted G10 grip and spine jimping work well for that method. Especially the jimping that’s ¾ of the way down the blade. It serves not only to prevent slipping, but as an index point so you know where your finger is in relation to the point, even in the dark.

One nit pick on the ergos is the pinkie hook, which pushes the hand forward, a little too close to the edge.

Best Replaceable Blade Knife: Outdoor Edge Razorlite

Scott Einsmann

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Key Features

• Blade Length: 3.5 inches
• Blade Steel: Japanese 420J2 Stainless
• Nylon pouch
• Weight: 6.4 ounces

Pros

• Easy to replace blades
• Good blade shape

Cons

• Heavier than some replaceable blade knives

Product Description

This year I found myself on the side of a mountain with five others trying to break down two elk on the side of the mountain as quickly as possible due to grizzly bears just a ridge over. Everyone had different replaceable blade knives, but about halfway through the first elk it was obvious, which of the knives was the best—the Razorlite. Its blades were the easiest to replace and the mounting system was trouble free. Other knives got gummed up and the blades came off, but the RazorLite chugged through deboning the two elk.

While the RazorLite isn’t the lightest replaceable blade knife—5.9 ounces heavier than a Tyto. It’s the most trouble-free design I’ve used. I don’t have blades pop off or break and can make it through an animal on one blade. When it’s time to swap a blade you just press the button, slide the blade out, and slide a new blade in. The rubberized group stays grippy when your hands are covered in blood. The 3.5-inch blade is a good length for balancing maneuverability and cutting efficiency. If weight isn’t a major concern and you want a replaceable blade knife, I’d recommend the Razorlite.

Best Handmade: Montana Knife Company Blackfoot 2.0

Montana Knife Company

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Key Features

• Weight: 3.6 ounces
• G10 Handle
• 52100 Steel
• Blade Length: 3.5 inches
• Overall Length: 7.75 inches
• Free sharpening 
• Made in Montana 
• Price: $300

Pros

• Handmade quality
• Versatile blade shape
• Great ergonomics 

Cons

• Price

The ergonomics on the Blackfoot 2.0 are ideal, and it comfortably puts your hand into a natural position without forcing you into a specific grip. That means whether you’re whittling by the fire or making that delicate initial cut while field dressing, you’ll have a comfortable and controllable grip. Adding to the good grip are the sculpted G10 scales, which are a step above the standard flat scales on mass produced knives. 

From the factory, the Blackfoot is very sharp and I’ve only needed to occasionally strop mine to keep it that way. It’s worth noting that Montana Knife Company offers lifetime sharpening. The full flat grind slices through meat like butter, and I think the blade shape is perfect for taking an animal from the field to a vacuum sealed bag. 

The Blackfoot 2.0 uses 52100 steel, which isn’t the sexiest blade steel. However, 52100 has been around since 1905 and used for knives since at least 1940—so it’s time tested. According to Knife Steel Nerds, it has good toughness and doesn’t have the blade retention of higher chromium alloys. That means you don’t have to worry as much about chipping your edge when you smack into a bone, but you might want to have a honing rod handy while butchering. It’s also worth noting that it’s not a stainless steel and will need to be wiped dry before storage. So while many companies are quick to jump on the latest and greatest steels like Magnacut, it’s great to see a company utilizing a proven entity. 

A $300 knife isn’t a small purchase, but consider that if you care for this blade, your grandchildren will use it to field dress their first deer. That heirloom quality shifts the value proposition for me. If you want a handmade knife and are capable of maintaining your tools, then the Montana Knife Company Blackfoot 2.0 is an excellent option. 

Best Folder: Buck 110 Slim

Buck Knives

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Key Features

• Blade Length: 3.75 inches
• Overall Length: 8.6 inches (4.8 inches folded)
• Stainless 420 steel with BOS heat treat
• Lockback
• Glass Filled Nylon (GFN) handle material
• Weight: 2.8 ounces
• Price: $43

Pros

• Lightweight
• Under $50
• Made in the USA

Cons

• Not ideal for hard-use tasks 

I own the original Buck 110, a fixed blade 110, and the newer 110 Slim. They’re all iconic hunting knives that have proven themselves through hard use by countless outdoorsmen. The best knife for field dressing among the 110 line is the 110 slim, because it’s light, is easier to open thanks to the addition of thumb studs, and blood effortlessly washes off the GFN handle. Fans of the original will be happy to learn that  it maintains the classic, and rock solid, lockback design and endlessly useful clip point blade. It’s also one of the few knives under $50 that are made in the USA. 

Buck Knives opened up shop in 1902, just four years after Outdoor Life, and have had a loyal following ever since. If you’re looking for a classic that won’t hurt the wallet or weigh you down, you can’t go wrong with the 110 Slim. 

If you want to upgrade from the 110 Slim also check out the 110 Slim Pro TRX and 110 Hunter Sport.

More Great Hunting Knives

Picks by knife experts Matt Foster and Rick Spicer.

Best No-Frills: Giantmouse GMF2

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I was so impressed with the pocket clip EDC knife Giant Mouse sent for a previous review that I was excited to check out one of their fixed blades for use as a hunting knife. Unfortunately, they’re out of stock, but given the features and price point it’s not surprising why. The GMF2 is an old-school style, full tang fixed blade with profiled green canvas micarta scales attached to the side with fasteners and spacers. It’s nothing fancy, it’s just a tried and true way of putting together a solid, no frills fixed blade. Made from Bohler N690 Cobalt steel, the shallow drop point blade will be a great general purpose field knife as well as hunting knife. The blade shape is well suited and could be used for a gutting knife, a skinning knife, and some processing. In keeping with the old-school motif, the sheath is a leather pouch style setup with an integral belt loop. With an MSRP of $195 it’s no wonder this knife was sold out at the time this was written. That’s okay though, we’ll wait. MSRP is $195. Specs: Blade length 3.62 in.; Blade thickness 0.157 in.; Overall length 8.12 in.; Weight 4.1 oz.

Best Compact: CRKT BIWA

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The BIWA is one the smallest knives of the group, and certainly the most svelte (yes, “svelte”). This is a fixed blade harkening back to the “trout and bird” knife days when people occasionally kept trout without being called heathens. Designed to offer good performance and economics, The BIWA has a 8Cr13MoV stainless steel, slender profile, full tang blade with a thin handle profile and nicely contoured G10 scales. This helps keep the weight of the knife to a mere 1.6 ounces, which is nice if you’re watching your weight on a backcountry hunt. While not necessarily designed with survival-type knife tasks in mind, the 3-inch blade length any hunting tasks you throw at it. The hard plastic, molded sheath holds the BIWA securely and it even comes with an optional belt loop that can be attached to the sheath if desired. Other than an included lanyard that’s too small to actually get over your hand, this is a great little knife. MSRP is $49.99. Specs: Blade length 3.02 in.; Blade thickness 0.11 in.; Overall length 6.63 in.; Weight 2 oz. (with sheath)

Best Butchering Knife: Benchmade Meatcrafter

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When Benchmade told us about the Meatcrafter, a high-end knife for processing game, did we want to include it in our round up of best hunting knives? Well yeah. The real work begins after the shot, right? And part of that hard, albeit rewarding work, is the final cutting required to put the meat on the table. This isn’t a rugged backcountry survival type fixed blade. It’s not supposed to be. Ultimately, this is a boning knife that has the right qualities to debone, trim, and break down primal cuts. Made from a new steel for Benchmade, powdered metal technology CMP-154, the 6-inch trailing point blade is relatively thin and somewhat flexible, which is why it lends itself so well to most meat processing tasks. Processing can be messy business. Fortunately, the handle is made from over-molded Santoprene, a rubber-like material which helps maintain a great grip even with wet or bloody hands. Even though this may not be something you strap to your hip or pack, the Meatcrafter still comes with a molded Boltaron sheath worthy of a rugged field trip. This will be a great knife to have in camp, the kitchen, the shop or wherever you butcher your game. MSRP is $160. Specs: Blade length 6.08 in.; Blade thickness 0.09 in.; Overall length 11.06 in.; Weight 3.24 oz.

Best Affordable Do-It-All Hunting Knife: Outdoor Life Camping Fixed Blade Knife

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This knife carries the Outdoor Life name and it’s part of a larger set of knives and camping tools. The Camping Fixed Blade Knife fits nicely in with the theme of this roundup because it’s a general purpose blade that can serve in multiple capacities well such as a utility knife, hunting camp knife or even skinning and processing. It has a 7cr17MoV stainless steel drop point blade. 7cr17MoV has good corrosion resistance, holds an edge reasonably well and will sharpen easily. The handle has made has a glass filled polymer frame that is overmolded with a rubber like texture providing an excellent grip. For carrying or storing the knife, the Camping Fixed Blade comes with a molded friction retention sheath. A nice touch is the multi-position clip that can be oriented as needed to accommodate packs, belts, etc. This is not a small or lightweight knife, so it may not be the first choice for a backcountry hunt where ounces seem to all to quickly equal pounds, but it would be a great addition to have in camp or the processing table. MSRP is $40. Specs: blade length 4.75 in. blade thickness 0.13 in. Overall Length 9 5/16 in. Weight 8 5/8 oz.

Best Survival Knife: Helle Utvaer

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Key Features

• Top wood cutter
• Scandi grind and full tang makes this durable and strong
• 4-inch blade
• Scandi grind
• 12C27 steel

Product Overview

Helle of Norway is a family company that’s been making high-quality knives for three generations. They excel at creating knives with razor-sharp scandi grinds, which are excellent for carving wood. While they make several capable models, I prefer the durability of the full-tang Utvaer. Its curly birch handle is functional and fits very well in medium sized hands. The stainless Sandvik 12C27 steel is thin, which makes for a very good slicing knife, while still durable. All that adds up to a survival knife with a good handle, rust resistance, and great blade performance. —Rick Spicer

Read Next: The Best Camping Knives of 2023

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Best Overall		Benchmade Adamas	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary This knife is tough, has great edges, and can handle nearly anything.
Best for Hunting		Buck 110 Slim Pro TRX	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary A classic knife with a slimmer, modern upgrade.
Best for Fishing		Spyderco Salt 2	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary H1 blade steel is stainless and won’t rust in saltwater.

A knife is the most useful tool that has ever been invented, but it’s only useful if you have it on you when you need it. That’s why folding knives are the go-to choice for most people. They can be used for opening a package, breaking down a deer, or whittling a tent stake, and are easily carried in a front pocket. Their usefulness also means there are a ton of options and finding the best folding knife isn’t an easy task. 

• Best Overall: Benchmade Adamas
• Best for Camping: Victorinox One-Handed Trekker
• Best for Hiking: Benchmade Bugout
• Best for Hunting: Buck 110 Slim Pro TRX
• Best for Fishing: Spyderco Salt 2
• Best Budget: CRKT Pilar

As a professional knife sharpener, outdoorsman, and knife addict, I’ve had the chance to use a pile of great folding knives. I’ve made the task of choosing the best option for your needs by choosing the best folding knives for camping, bushcraft, hiking, hunting, and fishing. Here are my picks.

Best Folding Knives: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Overall: Benchmade Adamas

Benchmade

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Key Features

• Made in the U.S.
• 3.82 inch CPM CRU-WEAR drop point blade
• 6.45 ounces
• Skeletonized G-10 handle scales
• AXIS Lock

Pros

• Good edge retention and toughness
• Strong lock
• Blade coating prevents staining
• LifeSharp warranty
• Big enough to handle nearly anything

Cons

• Heavy

The Benchmade Adamas was designed by famed maker Shane Seibert, and recently received a big upgrade to Cru-Wear Steel from its original D2. The handle shape is comfortable, and provides solid grip in any situation. The Adamas makes you forget that you have a folding knife because it’s so solid. The size and blade shape make it super versatile for just about any situation whether you are camping, hunting, bushcrafting, or taking a hike. Obviously, it isn’t the lightest or best blade grind for specialty uses, but the Adamas is a jack of all trades, and master of none. The Adamas takes the title of best overall folding knife because it can handle pretty much anything you throw at it, and keep on cutting.  

Best for Camping: Victorinox One Handed Trekker

Victorinox

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Key Features

• Made in Switzerland 
• 12 tools 
• 4.6 ounces
• One-handed opening main blade
• Full length main blade and saw

Pros

• Quality manufacturing 
• Locking, one-hand opening main blade
• Saw works for up to “wrist-sized” wood
• Feels solid in hand without being bulky
• Available in several variations

Cons

• Only the main blade locks

I received one of these tools as a gift a few years ago and didn’t think I would like it. Then I took it outside and started using it—my opinion quickly flipped. I was most surprised with the saw and how it just ripped through wood. The Trekker is easy to carry and packs a ton of utility in a sub-4.5-inch tool. I chose a multitool as the best folding camp knife because whether you’re in the backyard or backcountry, RV or tent, the Trekker will cover just about any camping task you have. These models are not the most popular tools made by Victorinox, but I think they are some of the best, and the Trekker earns my pick for best folding knife for camping.

Best for Hiking: Benchmade Bugout

Benchmade

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Key Features

• Made in the U.S.
• 3.24 inch CPM S30V drop point blade
• 1.85 ounces 
• AXIS lock
• Grivory handle material

Pros

• Lightweight, yet strong
• Easy to carry in your pocket
• Lifetime and LifeSharp warranty
• Blue scales are easy to spot if dropped
• Mini deep carry pocket clip helps prevent snags on brush

Cons

• Thin and somewhat flexible handle scales

The Benchmade Bugout has been with me on quite a few hikes and backpacking trips. Even with pants and shorts made of thin material, the Bugout won’t weigh down your pocket. Its slim profile allows access to whatever else is in your pocket, but once you open the knife up, you have plenty of blade length. Although there is some flex in the handle scales, you can apply a lot of pressure on this knife and it won’t break. The handle flex is not serious and handles don’t stay bent. The blade shape lends itself well to food prep on the trail, carving tent pegs, or taking care of splinters or blisters. The S30V blade holds an edge and is relatively easy to sharpen, not that you should have to need to do so on the trail. Weight is always a consideration on the trail, and the Bugout hits the perfect balance between counting ounces and not giving up capability. Add in a great warranty and free sharpening from Benchmade for life, and the Bugout seems an easy win for the best folding knife for hiking. 

Best for Hunting: Buck 110 Slim Pro TRX

Buck Knives

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Key Features

• Made in the U.S.
• 3.75 inch S30V clip point blade
• 3.3 ounces
• New Torx Screw Construction
• Lockback lock

Pros

• Reversible pocket clip
• Much lighter than the original
• Durable materials
• Thumb studs for one-handed opening
• Thinner profile for easier carry

Cons

• Requires two hands to close

I like the looks and nostalgia of old-school folding knives like the original 110 and various slip joint knives, but I value function over form at the end of the day. That has led me to mostly use modern folders with easier opening, convenient pocket clips, and higher-end materials. So, when I saw Buck had modernized the venerable 110, I was pretty excited. 

The 110 Slim Pro TRX  got a big upgrade in blade steel, as well as modern features like thumb studs on the blade to aid one-handed opening and a new torx screw construction instead of old school rivets. The 110 Slim Pro TRX also went on a serious diet and lost weight and girth making it easier to carry and, in my opinion, feels better in hand. You’ll also have a better grip with the  G10 handles on the 110 Slim Pro TRX, which are much better for resisting the elements. The Buck 110 Slim Pro TRX retains the same blade and handle shape as the original, but gets the modern upgrades that it deserves. Classic shapes meet modern materials and conveniences to produce the best folding knife for hunting. 

Best for Fishing: Spyderco Salt 2

Spyder Co

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Key Features

• Made in Japan
• 3-inch Sheepsfoot Blade
• 2.1 ounces
• FRN handle scales
• Rustproof H1 steel

Pros

• Sheepsfoot blade is less likely to stab you when the boat is rocking or if you slip
• Lightweight and easy to carry in four positions
• High traction FRN scales prevent slipping
• Hollow ground blade slices with ease
• Easy opening with thumb hole blade

Cons

• H1 is rustproof, but lacks slightly in edge retention

The Spyderco Salt 2 is the perfect example of a knife taking care of you, not you taking care of the knife. If you are in saltwater environments (or freshwater for that matter) this knife requires basically zero maintenance aside from the occasional sharpening. Throw it in the tackle box wet and dirty, and give it a second thought. Wade into the shallows with this in your pocket and don’t sweat it. 

The H1 steel is not like other stainless knives that will eventually rust and discolor. H1 won’t rust even under the worst conditions. The Salt 2 isn’t going to replace your fillet knife because of its size, but cutting line, ropes, tangles, dispatching your catch, and gutting shouldn’t be a problem for the Salt 2. Aside from the rustproof blade, the Salt 2 uses a simple and reliable lock back and grippy bi-directional traction pattern on the handle that is used on many other Spyderco knives. Good grip, ergonomics, and H1 steel make the Salt 2 the best folding knife for fishing in my book. 

Best Budget: CRKT Pilar

CRKT Knives

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Key Features

• Made in China
• 2.4 inch Sheepsfoot blade
• 4.2 ounces
• Stainless steel handle scales
• Frame lock

Pros

• Strong construction
• Affordable
• Several variations and special editions to choose from
• Finger choil gives great blade control

Cons

• Short blade

The CRKT Pilar is a collaboration between CRKT and custom knife maker Jesper Voxnae. The Pilar’s solid construction and a beefy frame lock makes you feel like you have something substantial in your hand, but a forward finger choil and shorter blade length make the heft easy to control. The Pilar is also available with a wide variety of handle materials such as G-10, micarta, and copper, and can be had with a satin or dark acid stone washed finish on the blade. If you’re on a budget and need a solid performer (and you aren’t chasing the latest super steel), the CRKT Pilar should serve you well.  

Things to Consider When Buying a Folding Knife

The biggest consideration when buying a folding knife is not the price, the looks, or the brand— it’s the intended use. Ask yourself these questions: 

• What will you be using it for mostly? 
• Are you rough on gear, or are you someone who takes time to care for your knives regularly and are careful with them in the field? 

Make sure you get something that is well suited to your most common cutting tasks. For example, a thin blade is great for slicing cardboard and a thicker blade with a convex grind is better for carving wood. Both knives can do both tasks, but choose the knife that excels at the task you do most often. 

I also recommend looking at the brand’s warranty policy you are considering buying from. Some knife companies have amazing service and warranty, and some will leave you wanting. Do some research, especially if you’re going to put your knife to work. 

Another consideration is the type of blade steel. A carbon steel is easy to sharpen, but requires more maintenance to prevent rust. A stainless blade is more rust resistant, but is more difficult to sharpen. 

There’s a lot to consider when choosing the best folding knife, but my rule of them is if you can’t decide between two knives, buy both. 

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Final Thoughts on the Best Folding Knives

The convenience of carrying a folding knife over a fixed blade is undeniable. And today, buyers have a huge selection of quality folding knives to choose from for nearly every application you can think of. While there are plenty of good choices for the best folding knife in these categories, these knives stood out to me as being at the top of the pile in their respective areas. 

• Best Overall: Benchmade Adamas
• Best for Camping: Victorinox One-Handed Trekker
• Best for Hiking: Benchmade Bugout
• Best for Hunting: Buck 110 Slim Pro TRX
• Best for Fishing: Spyderco Salt 2
• Best Budget: CRKT Pilar

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